two years prior at full speed of the
Enfield, only now the average speed
was only 20 kilometres per hour,
maximum.
Slowing down had a delightful, and
unintended, effect. We were able to
stop often and visit the vendors, see
the local women sitting down and
washing their beautiful hair in the
waterfalls at the side of the road, the
local school children riding atop of
the busses, agriculture on the steep
hillsides in action, and the movement
of people all over without the inter-
ruption of the large trucks and busses
on the main road. Peaceful riding on
an absolutely, horribly maintained
road. After about three times the
amount of time I estimated this day,
we finally arrived at the town of Sau-
raha and met up with another riding
companion – who wisely took the
traditionally-busy road and arrived
much earlier! Regardless, we were all
happy to safely emerge the Mad Max
section and arrive to the serene Chit-
wan National Park, another UNESCO
World Heritage site!
One never knows exactly what
hotel will emerge, which was pre-
booked, especially in a developing
country, until seeing it with your own
eyes. Well beyond my expectations!
We had the corner room right on the
edge of the National Park – the only
thing dividing the hotel room and
the park was the river that flowed
between.
The banks of the river hosted all
of the traditional flora and fauna,
including crocodiles and elephants,
easily in sight from the porch.
The first day there, I was feeling
a bit scruffy, so indulged in a local
haircut – one of my trademark travel
experiences. Without any language
exchanged, the barber went to work,
including the upgraded neck, shoul-
der, and head massage. Upon com-
pletion of both, I was a bit surprised
when I opened my eyes to find out
the barber was on to the next custom-
TRAVERSE
95
er and my massage was taken over by
his son!
All good fun! My friends told me
that my new haircut made me look
like Sting – my name for the remain-
der of the trip.
Boarding the traditional dug-out
canoe, we were quickly whisked
across the crocodile-infested waters
to the entrance to the park. Walk-
ing and jeep tours are all available,
all with a guide present to not only
highlight the flora and fauna, but to
also protect the animals from visi-
tors, including poachers. There is a
wide range of animals in the dense
jungles and grasslands, including
one of the last natural refuges for the
illusive Royal Bengal Tiger and the
Single-horned Asiatic Rhinoceros.
The park rangers are atop of police
elephants with automatic weapons to
protect things – it was a first for me
to see this mode of transportation for
the rangers.
By way of the ancient town of