TRAVERSE Issue 15 - December 2019 | Page 91

TRAVEL FEATURE - N epal CHRIS FOSTER A MAD MAX ADVENTURE S hiva, Karma, the Himalayas, Mount Everest, prayer flags, and yaks … all words and images that come to mind for the new and returning visitor to Nepal, that unique mountain kingdom, buried between the countries of India and Tibet. Nepal has had a challenging history, within its borders and with its immediate neighbours. Internal political issues ended with the over- throw, and assassination, of the royal family in 2001. Then another blow to the national well-being occurred in an unfortunate chapter in the king- dom’s history, the devastating earth- quakes of 2015, where 9,000 people were killed and 22,000 injured. The quake with a magnitude of 7.8 leveled many historical and religious locations. These catastrophic events had a devastating toll, both physically and to the psyche of this special place on Earth. Sandwiched between the two his- TRAVERSE 91 torically contentious countries, Nepal has had a protracted history of mov- ing borders and the artificial separa- tion of thousands of years of culture, religion, and people. After a trip over twenty years ago during the turn of the millennium, I returned twice in as many years to ride the Himalayas on a motorcycle. The motorcycle, due to its inherit physical vulnerability, helped to bring me close to nature, the elements and, ultimately, to the people who, from previous explorations, were deep in my mind. These people make the country what it is – only added to by the natural beauty and the ingrained spirituality that permeates every Ne- pali saying and action. All trips start with the love-hate relationship of Kathmandu. The old section of the city is a maze of small streets filled with Hindu and Buddhist shrines and at times the road is built around a very small, ancient, sacred spot that is almost invisible to the