TRAVERSE Issue 15 - December 2019 | Seite 51

iced drinks after passing through the towns of Dundee and Glencoe. We saw signs for Newcastle and almost felt at home … 39 degrees in the UK! Wow! At lunch, Alex briefed us about the afternoon ride to Rorke’s Drift. We would have our first ride on dirt roads, and he advised us to stop and change the bikes into ‘enduro’ mode. The road was a typical rutted, stony hard-baked gravel road but the bikes coped well. Liz hit a patch of sand and had a buttock clenching wobble but recovered well and stayed up- right. Now, they say that you learn some- thing every day. On this day I learned that if you are riding on dusty African dirt roads that you must keep your visor firmly shut. If you don’t, your companions will laugh, point and take photos BEFORE they offer you a wet wipe to clean your dirty, dusty face. Rorke’s Drift was eerie and ghostly and whilst walking around the small museum I reflected on the futility of war and man’s inhumanity to fellow man. We were walking on the death- beds of hundreds of Zulu warriors and tens of British red coats. We paused at the beautiful monument to the Zulus which was a statue of a TRAVERSE 51 majestic leopard guarding their souls. The battlefield visit left us in rather a sombre mood, before we continued the dirt road to our hotel on the banks of the Buffalo River where the massa- cre started. After dinner, Alex led us onto the hotel balcony to look at the stars again. He pointed out some constel- lations and showed us how to identify the Southern Cross. The darkness of the night highlighted the stars, again we gazed skyward, millions of stars and the soft cloud of the Milky Way not normally visible to us. Soon, the temperature plunged and shivering, we had to make our way indoors.