it felt a little out of place. A well-
stocked supermarket, a school and an
impressive arts centre all sat proudly
in this community amongst the beau-
tifully green tropical lands. Hills on
the horizon, billabongs, wetlands, it’s
a paradise and the people of Gunbal-
anya know it.
There’s a pride here. A pride that
I very rarely witnessed before. The
people know what they have and will
do what they can to protect it.
Within the grounds of the In-
jalak Arts Centre I learn a great deal
about not only art but also heritage
and respect. All the artists, old and
young, have a beauty that radiates
from within, it’s infectious. Describ-
ing their crafts, their art, their history
these people have a genuine love of
where they are, of who they are, it
flows over the listener and one feels
connected.
The Elders prescribe traditions
that embrace worlds old and new.
The young are taught of their ances-
tors, their land, their history. They
are taught for their future. There’s no
surprise it involves a modern God.
Gunbalanya School covers year
ranges Prep to 12 and is said to be
one of the most successful schools in
remote Australia, attendance and re-
sults are improving. It’s a remarkable
TRAVERSE 36
achievement considering that 98%
of the 240 plus fulltime students are
indigenous and 97% of the students
have a language background that is
not English, in many cases English
isn’t even their second or third lan-
guage.
My new friends laugh that it’s a
God that is making it work, I must
look sceptical as they explain that the
community won’t let any child play,
watch or talk about Australian Rules
Football if they don’t go to school.
They all nod in agreeance, up here
football is God.
I’m stared at, wide-eyed, as I
explain I don’t follow Aussie Rules,