assumptions we may have had about
any given place. Once we reached
South America, we had absolutely no
idea what Colombia would have to of-
fer to a pair of motorcycle travellers.
We went in with a certain amount of
speculation and doubt that it would
leave us unimpressed with risk of
instability in certain areas. There was
still a stigma that Colombia was a
“dangerous” place where drug cartels
might kidnap you and hold you for
ransom. I did not know a lot about
Colombia, but I knew we were not go-
ing to ride down small roads that led
to tiny villages far off the beaten path.
We ended up doing just that. We
rode down the smallest of roads to re-
mote towns and found the true heart
of Colombia. The friendliness of the
people immediately washed away any
fear we had prior to stepping in their
country. Everywhere we turned was
another amazing pueblo with a small
central square and an old cathedral
that was even more picturesque than
the last.
Riding into the backcountry on
gravel roads through valleys with
rivers and waterfalls cutting deep
lines into the earth were our high-
ways. The glaciers of El Cocuy almost
reached down to the very road we
travelled on. We rode under blue
skies that smashed against the green
landscape while colourful flowers
bloomed in open fields with grazing
animals. We could not believe how
immensely beautiful Colombia was.
The charm of the countryside was in
tight competition with the kindness
of its people, and the two were in a
deadlocked tie while still trying to
gain the advantage over the other.
Barichara, Guadalupe, Cepita, and
Chita were just a few of the small
quaint towns that we were lucky
enough to visit and call home for a
couple of days at a time. Some of
the towns barley see outsiders, and
we were easy to spot due to our lack
of ponchos and tall felt hats. But we
were always greeted with a smile and
treated as important guests. This
TRAVERSE 26
hospitality continued throughout
Colombia and we could not believe
how incorrect our initial assumptions
were.
As we continued south through
Ecuador and into Peru, we were once
again tainted with low expectations.
Machu Picchu is a world wonder, fel-
low travellers would say ‘It is a must
see, picturesque and stunning. But
sadly, it is touristy to the point where
you are herded around like cattle’.
These statements took away some of
the draw I had to it. Northern Peru is
far less visited and has its fair share
of ruins and archaeological sites that
few people travel to. Marisa and I
received the keys to Peublo de los
Muertos, the City of the Dead, and
camped high into the hills with a view
of Gocta waterfalls in the distance.
Our private campground led to an an-
cient burial site that was built into the
cliff walls. Sometimes the path along
the edge was only a foot wide, with a
hundred-foot drop-off that would add
you as a citizen to the city with an in-