TRAVERSE Issue 10 - February 2019 | Page 32

make your way from one end to the other by pedal power and I consider it close to a must do if you have time. Leaving Queenstown, I had my last real adventure in the area loading Robin onto the Mount Nicholas Fer- ry to ride the Nicholas Station Road past the Mavora Lakes and onwards to Stewart Island. Riding a narrow ramp off the ferry into Nicholas Station in the rain I was almost regretting my decision not to just take the highway. My mind quick- ly changed as the sun suddenly broke through the clouds unleashing a wave of warmth and a magnificent double rainbow over the top of a gorgeous riv- er valley with steep mountain faces on either side. Thankfully the road was well maintained gravel all the way to the Mavora lakes allowing me to fully enjoy the magnificent views, the only challenges being two very shallow riv- er crossings. Arriving at the beginning of the lake area there was a grin plastered to my face as I ripped up the track beside the lack alternating between splash- ing my way up the puddle covered dirt sections and the beachfront sand and gravel, although I must admit I did make two mistakes. First, I didn’t stop and camp for the night and second, I didn’t strip down and go for a dip. Well for honesty’s sake l should admit to a third blunder; after riding one of the sandy beach sections I tried to do a slow turn- around on the narrow dirt path and gently dropped Robin onto the dirt when the front tire slipped on an ex- posed root. Oops! From here it was a long but easy ride down to Invercar- gill to catch the ferry across to Stewart Island. The first time I’ve left Robin over- night since starting the adventure I left her on the kickstand as I hopped on the boat across the Foveaux Straight to Stewart Island. A quick and easy jaunt later I arrived to a beautiful sunset ea- ger to see the local wildlife; kiwis and penguins. I pitched my tent, threw back some dinner, and headed out into the eve- ning just as the weather began to turn. What began as clouds flowing through to obscure the stars became light rain steadily increasing in volume as the wind rose as well. Needless to say, the animals were not found, and I hid away in my tent in hopes for better climate in the morning. It didn’t hap- pen. Thanks to a magically waterproof tent and a scotch induced coma, I was able to ignore the weather through the night until the sun began to rise, and the hail began pounding on the tent. Waking up to what almost appeared to be a winter wonderland, I made a quick dash inside to the common ar- eas of the hostel to ride out the storm where I hung out with Alex from Ber- lin. Despite the weather we headed out and attacked the easiest of the walking trails doing a quick (and wet) walk around the tip of the island en- joying the wet views, before both de- ciding we’d had enough and rushing back to catch the last ferry back to the “mainland”. This ferry ride was something spectacular as the storm had pushed the seas to a much more adventurous and enjoyable ride, al- though this sentiment was not com- monly shared aboard as there were people throughout the cabin leaving their lunches and dinners in the small paper bags. My small venture did not assuage my desire to explore the area, and I will definitely be returning to do a multiple day hike through the local huts. My next couple of days on the main- land were a blur of waterfall walks, coastal roads, and time in the saddle as I was beginning to feel the bite of time and whipped my way up to the Dark Sky Reserve and Mount Cook while there appeared to be a great window for practicing some star pho- tography. The first notable stop along the way was in Twizel where I met Weronika TRAVERSE 32 Kwapisz a Triumph Poland ambassa- dor doing a quick lap of the country on a beautiful red Bonneville Bobber. Talk about life goals; travelling the world by motorcycles generously pro- vided by companies in exchange for social media promotion. Sharing sto- ries of great rides around the country and getting her take on the ups and downs of her burgeoning motorcycle career was highly informative and en- joyable, I really hope to ride with her again in Poland! While the sky is stunning, Twizel it- self is nothing remarkable outside of the fact that is an easy entry point to Mount Cook where I was headed the next day. As a polar opposite to Twizel, the ride up to Mount Cook is spectacular. Towering snow-covered peaks as far as the eye can see with a beautiful blue basin through the beginning of the ride, and while there is no section of back to back hairpins or heart racing action, the continual slow curves and good asphalt make it a very enjoyable ride. With Tekapo as a target for the night I once again only sampled the area with the 8.5km Hooker Valley Track up to Hooker Lake which is supposed to have magnificent views across an iceberg encrusted lake of Mount Cook and the nearby glaciers … or in my case horizontal rain, high winds and low cloud obstructing all views. Yet another place I’ll have to return to! With all the requisite photo stops along the way the ride to Tekapo took much longer than it should have, but you won’t see me complaining about that however, I may have made a mas- sive mistake in timing my arrival to the lake with childrens school break as the majority of my hostel was booked out by a high school making it near im- possible to get access to the kitchen, or common room, or really anything. Colby’s top tip: don’t travel during school holidays. Thankfully I didn’t spend much time at the hostel as my main reason