TRAVERSE Issue 09 - December 2018 | Page 81

ing much of our lane but space for a motorcycle to pass. Forward I went at walking pace. Suddenly the bike was out from under me, then on top of me. Following behind was Chris. He also lost control, both he and bike landed on top of me. What happened? A tin of sunflow- er oil had been punctured in the acci- dent and flowed onto the road surface. That was the start of some uncom- fortable days for me as 3km from our hotel I had torn ligaments away from my knee. I rode for four more days but eventually the knee locked & I became a passenger in the support vehicle for the last two days. With Jenny being medically trained I was in good hands, getting the best possible care and advice whilst man- aging my injury. Fortunately, Chris was not injured in the fall. Leaving next morning in peak hour traffic there was a man on horseback moving a herd of about 60 horses along with the traffic and nobody seemed fazed. We came to Toktogul Lake with our resort right on the banks. I thought the lake was huge until we got to the next one which made this one look like a puddle! Bitumen: 340km of it to reach Bish- kek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan and the largest city in the country. There is a fabulous market area where goods are both plentiful and cheap. Whilst some of the facilities for travellers in remote regions may leave a bit to be desired these cities have a lot to offer with great accommodation, friendly locals and tasty cuisine. Near our hotel there was a yard with around 80 adventure bikes being packed into or removed from frames that fit shipping containers. I never did get to find out about the bikes, but it was obvious that many riders get to Bishkek. It was a day to catch up on rest, eat some tasty food, drink a few beers and enjoy a trip to the market. Every time that I visit such a market I’m amazed TRAVERSE 81