verse the head waters of the Amazon
River as Gilles reached Macapa, right
on the equator, a chance to service
the bike and prepare it for the ride
ahead.
Two hundred kilometres south of
Oiapoque, on the border with French
Guiana, Gilles stopped in the only ho-
tel he could find, in fact this seemed
to be the only building in the village.
Kids on the roadside sold passes by
fresh pineapples, always with a smile.
The border brought a surprise, a
Canadian working at the Federal Po-
lice Station, a customs officer. No
problems this time, Gilles passed
straight through, after a beer with his
new-found friend.
Another ferry ride was needed to
cross the Oyapok River into the new
country, a bridge was constructed
four years previously, yet isn’t opened
due to the Brazilians not finishing
their side of the crossing. Politics!
Bureaucrats!
The coastal town of Kourou
brought more surprises. Philippe, a
local, invited him to his home. He
and his wife were preparing a ride to
Peru and were keen to get the opin-
TRAVERSE 75