TRAVERSE Issue 03 - December 2017 | Page 56

FIVE REASONS WHY ... Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent has spent several summers exploring Tajikistan’s famous Pamir Highway. Here she tells us what makes it such an enthralling adventure motorcycling destination. 1. Riding on the Roof of the World The Pamir Highway is so named because the heart of it cuts through Tajikistan’s High Pamirs, the third highest yet least explored mountain range on earth. Not for noth- ing are the Pamirs known as the Bam-i-Dunya, the roof of the world: glistening snow-capped peaks tower at every turn and the road slings you through gorges of terrifying verticality and over passes of dizzying altitude. Such topo- graphic extremes make for thrilling riding, jaw-dropping scenery and views to make you weep. 3. Following in the footsteps of the Silk Road The Pamir Highway is dripping in history and legend, its valleys and passes witness to thousands of years of tu- mult, triumph and trade. You can almost hear the groans of the camel trains that bought rubies, silk and spices west along the Wakhan Corridor, and sense the ghosts of Alex- ander’s armies that once thundered east. Magnificent 2000 year old fortresses stand like sentinels on mountaintops, crumbling Buddhist stupas keep watch over the valleys be- 2. Tajik and Kyrgyz hospitality Nowhere else on earth does hospitality like Central Asia, and no one in Central Asia does hospitality like the Pamiris. Smiles as warm as a summer’s day beam at you from every weather-worn face and you ride, grinning, through villages of shrieking, waving, excitable children. But it’s not just the children. Everyone, from bent old la- dies leading their donkey in at dusk, to toothless men sell- ing apricots in the shade, greets you with a cheery wave and a heart-lifting smile. It makes for a truly cockle-warm- ing experience. TRAVERSE 56