way, the blockades ahead were of a
much more determined nature and
we would be better off taking to the
smaller side streets.
This is what we did as we reached El
Alto, the northernmost extremity of
La Paz. This suburb is a vast impover-
ished area of adobe-brick single-level
dwellings, the very heartland of the
down-trodden compañeros.
One of our support jeeps lead the
way, followed by nine bikes and the
second jeep bringing up the rear, we
soon attracted unwelcome attention.
We were blissfully unaware that the
compañeros, a huge network of peo-
ple power divided into well-organised
groups with surprising communica-
tions, had dictated a complete ban
of all motorized traffic in their bid
to bring the cities to a standstill. As
we slowed to take a right-hand turn
around a rural property, a dozen or
so field workers started running and
pelting us with potato-sized rocks.
Fortunately, none of our riders was
hit, but our trailing support jeep sus-
tained four or five sizeable dents and
suddenly what had earlier appeared
to be a rather amusing protest by
peasant farmers was taking a nasty
turn for the worst.
We easily accelerated away from
this first sign of trouble, but worse lay
ahead.
Our path was blocked by a trench
dug across the gravel road and our
leading jeep became stuck until the
driver jumped out to lock the front
hubs into four wheel drive. Some-
body stalled their bike.
Suddenly, we were surrounded by
a rapidly growing number of shout-
ing field workers. We watched as they
ran across the fields to us, stooping to
pick up rocks as they approached.
In moments the angry mob out-
numbered us by about four to one,
TRAVERSE
50
this was becoming a very ugly scene.
Fortunately, sanity prevailed.
Australian passports were rapidly
produced to show that we were inno-
cent tourists rather than police rein-
forcements – rumours were rife that
the Bolivian police, unable to cope
with the situation, had called upon
their Chilean counterparts for sup-
port. Chile had the most to lose in the
whole situation.
Our drivers (two brothers named
Roberto and Samuel) did some rapid
talking, the mob held a quick coun-
cil to determine our fate. A 'fine'of a
few hunded Bolivianos to pay for our
transgression secured our safety. We
headed off again mas rapido into the
heart of El Alto proper.
We ran several more roadblocks
and small crowds, it was now clear we
would not make it safely to the com-
fort of our hotel in La Paz central.
Roberto took the courageous de-