Mark Holmes , has always had an interest in motorcycle travel . It started when he read Jim Rogers ' Investment Biker , then continued through the exploits of Sam Manicom , Lois Pryce and even Guy Martin however , it was Ted Simon who drove Mark ' s passion further .
Mark , set out to understand where his place in the world was through gaining a greater understanding of others and their surroundings .
Riding the world ' s largest capacity motorcycle around the world might seem crazy , Mark wouldn ' t deny that , but it ' s something he must do ; to learn and to honour ... to the honour the memory of his late wife , Sue , who past away from cancer perhaps brought on by smoking .
While travelling the world , learning from experiences , from cultures alien to his own , from individuals and their surroundings , Mark asks one thing , " " Please Stop Smoking ". We pick Mark up as he rides his Triumph Rocket X , through Iran ...
Without exaggerating I assure you , I was photographed or videoed over 100 times a day in Iran . Every time , a huge smile spread across the photographer ’ s face .
My presence in their country , aboard a larger motorcycle than they themselves are allowed to ride , seemed to fill their hearts with joy . I felt humbled , responding with a smile and a wave every time .
Riding on their hybrid roller-coaster , dodgem car compatible roads , I frequently became aware that cars I had expected to overtake me , slowed to match my speed , then videoed me riding beside them . An entire extended family , all with phones aimed in my direction . Once I had checked for safety , I ’ d release a hand and wave in return . The breadth of their smiles will live with me forever .
“ Where are you from ?” became the norm as I stopped for petrol , refreshments , site visits , or the end of the day .
“ Ingelastan !” was soon to become my common reply .
“ Welcome to Iran , welcome to my country .” I have never felt so much joy , so much love , it was very clear that they meant it .
After a paperwork delay at the border from Turkey , I met my guide , the invaluable Aydin Nezafat , and headed south . You need a Carnet de Passage en Douane to take a vehicle into Iran .
I made the mistake of not getting one before I left the UK . A ‘ fixer ’ sold me one at the border for a fee that would have been enough to feed a whole village with kebabs and rice for a day .
Tabriz , my first stop , happened to be my guide , Aydin ’ s , hometown . He took me to the Blue Mosque , building the story of its history as we approached .
Construction began during the 14th century , sadly 90 % of the building was destroyed by an earthquake 250 years ago . Painstakingly restored since the 1970 ’ s . The restoration seems a bit patchy in places . Forgiveable as all the walls are covered in mosaic . Not tiled , not painted ; plastered in local stone pieces , mostly deep blue . The scarcely credible craftsmanship is staggeringly beautiful . I almost shed a tear . The town ’ s ancient bazaar , with the former ‘ Silk Road ’ running through the middle , was amazing .
A wet patch on the ground gave some indication as to what my Triumph Rocket X was going through . A slow ride in , had caused the Rocket to boil over , coolant dripped from the reservoir . No harm done . I too
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