succumbed to the tackiness that tourists can often bring , there ’ s still a simple charm that was perfectly captured in the late 1970 ’ s movie adaptation of Thieles ’ Storm Boy . For the umpteenth time on this ride through the Coorong I felt a touch nostalgia .
All too suddenly it was time to leave Goolwa and head back west , to Victoria , following the Limestone Coast however , now inland through what seemed like never ending sand dunes . Riding through the wine country of Langhorne Creek and Wellington we came to the northern tip of Lake Alexandrina , then headed south in an almost straight line for around 50 kilometres . Completing a loop of Lake Albert and soon finding ourselves in Meningie , the point to turn slightly more east through the dunes .
At the very southern end of the range of dunes is a town called Lucindale . Close your eyes , think of 1960 ’ s Australia , open your eyes and you are there , Lucindale . Struggling to cling to existence this town is one of those that most people would just turn to look the other way , not noticing one of the most hospitable places you ’ ll come across . We stayed the night . Like in Port Macdonnell , we were treated with warmth and respect , we weren ’ t a passing curiosity , we were ‘ explorers ’, someone the locals could share their community and experiences with . With its many hidden gems , it is a town worth sharing .
Lucindale is one of those towns that would make a great hub for anyone wanting to explore the non-touristy areas of this part of Australia . The tracks out here are like many in this part of South Australia ; well groomed , hard packed , yet very rarely see transport making getting lost a joy .
Eventually the Limestone Coast gives way to the Coonawarra wine region and the many affluent towns that go with it . The wineries are worth checking with as many will allow travellers to camp amongst the vines , and for little or no cost . Could life get any better ?
As the Limestone Coast region began to fade and blend with the surrounding area it became apparent that this is another special part of Australia , an area rich with history of a living earth . Amongst the vast plains are odd conical mounds , some just hills , others small mountains , all the remnants of volcanic activity . The large border town of Mount Gambier is one such volcano and with its Blue Lake is well worth a visit , but that ’ s for another time .
Our ‘ expedition ’ along the rugged beauty of the south east South Australian coast had come to an end . We ’ d discovered life amongst the dunes , lakes and beaches as diverse as anywhere on earth . Discovered history dating back millennia , to a time when mankind shared the land with fire breathing hills and mammals as big as small cars . Discovered a way that was proof that adventures don ’ t always need to be too far from the beaten track . We ’ d discovered a land of limestone and lakes . LW
TRAVERSE 26