the UK. We’re addicted to exploring
Japan’s ancient history, clamber-
ing up a thousand steps to uncover
Shinto Temples shrouded in mystical
incense, fog, and monks clattering
religious bells.
But it’s not all easy riding … we
catch the ferry to a tiny island that’s
probably the most challenging place
we’ve ridden since leaving England.
Thousands of fluffy bunny rabbits
hop around near the wheels and it’s
just not worth the risk. You’d need to
be a pro trials rider to dodge them.
The island was once a top secret and
illegal chemical weapons manufac-
turing plant during WWII and the
rabbits’ ancestors were used for lab
testing. When Japan surrendered,
the workers released the animals
before fleeing. With no predators
they spread … like rabbits. We’re no
longer surprised by this sort of thing;
a few days later and we’re riding on
another island, this time brimming
with friendly deer.
TRAVERSE 89
Months pass, the ocean’s summer
breeze begins to fade and leaves fall
from the trees. So, we hook a right
and head inland to chase Japan’s tow-
ering southern mountains instead.
The colours are spectacular; pale
greens, bronze yellows and rusty reds
cover the valleys and coat the twisty
roads that snake their way through
them.
The roads flow through hundreds
of traditional villages filled with
friendly faces and waving people
tending their crops. Their kindness
takes us by surprise, mainly because
we thought the Japanese were so re-
served. But children bring us bags of
sweets on ferries, people give us food,
buy us drinks and even offer free
meals in cafes. Until we ride through
a sleepy village filled with people all
refusing to wave back - a first in our
five months of riding in Japan. Turns
out the village is populated by over
200 meticulously placed and well-
looked-after scarecrows and only 29