Traverse 13 | Page 78

drone and slight shudder, the feeling was that of freedom, we were almost at one with nature. The ‘apprentice’ pilot took us high to gain a great- er perspective of the area and the maze of waterways; green and blue as far as the eye could see. We then dropped down to almost water level as the sun lifted above the horizon, I couldn’t believe this was happening, a truly magical experience. We circled the ‘falls’ a few times before heading back to the floating village and gently settled on the small floating helipad. The ‘apprentice’ smiled and thanked us for joining him, his piloting skills were exempla- ry, I couldn’t help wonder if he was also one of the highly skilled pilots who muster cattle up this way. We were on the move again, guid- ed back to the high-powered boat used for traversing the ‘falls’, we were going through again despite noticing from the helicopter that the water was much calmer now. Perhaps a perfect opportunity to take in more of the natural wonder of the Kimberley landscape that so very few get to see. We circled through the twin bays, in and out of the narrow passages, everyone silent or talking in hushed tones as if trying to take it all in, words simply cannot describe this landscape. The boat gently cruised toward the floating village and I caught myself thinking of the future of this place. Is tourism saving it? Or are the constant flights and boat trips slowing destroy- ing the pristine environment? Swim- ming with the sharks might actually be saving them; the Tawny Nurse Shark is considered vulnerable, per- haps the tourism dollars are helping to protect them. There’s no doubt that tourism is making this area accessible and open to the world but how long before it becomes developed? Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures are doing what they can to protect the area, TRAVERSE 78 controlling the numbers and access of tourists, yet the dollar wields more power. The whine of turbines started to fill the air as a squadron of seaplanes came in over the horizon; the next load of ‘adventurers’ were here, it was time for us to leave. Biggles would fly us back to Derby. As the sun set behind the Derby Wharf, it seemed a fitting end, a glass of wine, good food and beautiful views from the Wharf Café. We sat watching the next lot of adventure tourists wander about, perhaps wait- ing for their time to witness one of natures true gifts. And I wondered to myself … Did that really just happen? MG Megan Governi is a founding member of the Traverse team and has travelled ex- tensively throughout Europe and Australia, the latter mostly by motorcycle, and loves getting off the tarmac.