NEPALESE
HERO
T
he phone rang, a wake-up call
from hotel reception, 4:45am.
I’ve been given time to allow
the hot water to reach the
second floor for my shower,
the call was supposed to be
5:00am.
Buddhist monks clanging drums
and chanting nearby, an acquired
taste. Sounds like garbage collectors
with the old metal cans. In the bath-
room a gecko watches me as I clean
my teeth, careful not to swallow the
local water.
A mouse type marsupial patters
past my chair in the dining room as
the waiter takes my order for fried
eggs and tomato with orange juice
and coffee. Welcome to Kathmandu
in the 21st century. A lot of progress
and many things that stay the same.
Where did it all start? Two weeks
ago, a group of us set out for a trek
in the Everest region of the Nepalese
Himalayas, around Ama Dablam and
the Everest base camp. Well rested
TRAVERSE 55
and showered, we’re off to spend a
couple of days at Chitwan National
Park in the jungle near the Indian
border. ‘There’s elephant safaris with
rhino and tiger to be stalked,’ we’re
told.
“Let’s ride down on motorbikes,” I
said, making enquiries about hiring.
Sure enough, after our second
dodgy Arthur Daley styled character,
we secure a deal, pick up the bikes
and were ready to ride out the next
day. The plan was to make an early
start to beat the peak hour chaos of
Kathmandu. What’s that saying about
plans?
Now let me tell you a little about
Kathmandu traffic. First the dotted
white line down the middle of the
road, when it’s evident, is there as a
very rough guide. Basically, it’s keep
to the left of the line. Every manner
of vehicle from the smallest rickshaw
to the largest truck and bus, usually
severely overloaded, are prepared
to sound their horns and go three or