Traverse 13 | Page 38

clock. This reliable Rotax powered single-cylinder EFI 53 horsepower bike, weighs only 150 kilograms, and proved an absolute joy to ride. My dear wife soon referred to it as my “mistress”! I must admit to growing very attached to this wonderful bike, that did not let me down once, across 21,850km. The only minus is a fuel tank of 9.5 litres. I carried an extra 14 litres in 2 x 5l fuel bladders and a 1-gallon Rotopax. My lightweight camping, and other gear was carried in Mosko Moto soft panniers and an Enduristan pack sack. It all turned out to be a perfect combination, and I am now con- vinced that “soft” panniers are the answer for a trip like this. Apart from a Carnet de Passages for the bike, I did not arrange a single visa before departure, counting on getting them along the way. It gave me a lot of flexibility as there was no fixed time entering and exiting the various countries I travelled. There was no doubt, travelling solo was for me. The freedom of being the master of your own domain, the challenge of finding solutions to the various problems and situations that arise each day are something I love. August 3rd, 2018, I rolled down the hill from my house on the island of Mors, blue sky above, a mirrorlike fjord on my left and right, 27 degrees – a perfect day! My thoughts were many. What if I had to turn back? Isn´t this just some big ego-trip? Aren´t I too old for this? “Growing old is inevitable … grow- ing up is optional,” a quote I’d read a few days earlier, I kept repeating the quote in my mind and headed south. Copenhagen, my first stop. My daughter Maiken had a little surprise waiting, she presented me with a travel companion. “Hector”, a rhino she’d crocheted for me. All through Africa, Hector turned out to be a real showstopper, an icebreaker whenev- er I stopped. It was a miracle Hector TRAVERSE 38 survived the trip. I can´t count the times I was asked, “Gift for me, gift for me … ” When you are heading for adven- ture in Africa, traversing Europe is not the most exciting part, more of a transport stage. Finding a way to start the journey on the eastern side of Africa proved to be a bit of a chal- lenge. I’d read several bad reports on the way visitors were treated by the authorities in Alexandria, Egypt when trying to clear their vehicles. Long, long delays, and lots of cash changing hands to get things moving. I decided to ship my bike from Lavrio, Greece with Salamis Shipping to Haifa in Israel, with me flying from Athens to Tel Aviv. It worked perfect- ly; I cleared the bike in Haifa within a couple of hours. Israel was new to me and can highly recommend a visit. The Is- raelis really want you to appreciate their country and go out of their way to make you feel at home. I visited