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promised to be just what I was looking for . We would stay in permanently erected ‘ genuine ’ Bedouin tents , eat typical Moroccan food and have a sing-song round the fire .
It was unexpectedly serene and beautiful . We set off just before a magical dusk , plodding through the Erg Chebbi dunes atop our camels . The only sound was the enchanting singing of the Moroccan mother on the camel in front as she and the animal ’ s rhythmic gait lulled her baby to sleep .
At dusk , amazingly clear stars appeared and this ‘ just for a laugh ’ overnight tour became something else for the five kilometre wander through the hills and vales of the dunes . At the Bedouin camp we ate freshly made lamb tagine , drank my wine and joined in the singing before settling down on our comfy bedding inside a big brown tent . Next morning , they sang “ Happy Birthday ” to me . I tried climbing to the top of what looked like a small dune but which seemed to get bigger the higher up I went . I didn ’ t reach the top before being called down to mount my steed and return to Merzouga where the only pouring going on was fresh orange juice and mint tea . It was dry and hot and I was happy .
The romance of the desert was then shattered by 4WD vehicles and motor bikes racing about the dunes . The
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