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Deep in the lush mountains of Japan’s Kii
Peninsula, a blazing orange torii towers over
a valley of seemingly infinite layers of gradient
blue peaks. The gate marks the entrance to
the Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, one
of the most famous sites of the Kumano Kodō
pilgrimage. A series of ancient trails weaving
through the lush terrain of Japan’s Wakayama
Prefecture, the Kumano Kodō is one of only
two UNESCO-recognized pilgrimage routes
in the world.
Once reserved for Japan’s Heian-era
aristocracy, the sacred route dates back
more than a thousand years, when emperors
and samurai would embark on weeks-long
journeys from as far as Kyoto. In total, the
Kumano Kodō comprises seven distinct trails
with hundreds of shrines and religious sites.
Some are nestled in moss-carpeted cedar
forests beyond age-worn wooden bridges
and magical trickling streams; an enchanting
cross between the California Redwoods
and a Miyazaki scene. Others are sprawling
complexes punctuated by wide-open spaces
and breathtaking mountain views.
Nakahechi—the imperial route running
from Tanabe City to Shingu—is a six-hour
hike passing three principle shrines: Kumano
SPRING | 2019
Hongu Taisha, home to the world’s largest
Shinto torii; the expansive squares of Kumano
Hayatama Taisha; and the finale of Kumano
Nachi Taisha with its striking vermillion
pagoda backed by the prismatic mist of Japan’s
highest waterfall. Each route holds its own
mysterious surprise. You could walk through
the woods for an entire day without seeing
another person, then suddenly stumble upon
a group of locals in traditional Heian-era
kimonos, hobbling up the Daimonzaka
cobblestone path.
Best of all, your itinerary is highly
customizable. You could choose the especially
arduous Kohechi route and camp along
the way. Alternatively, you could choose to
go easy by utilizing plentiful public transit
from Tanabe and enjoying overnight stays
in luxurious traditional inns called ryokan,
relaxing in steaming natural springs and
devouring authentic kaiseki-style meals to
recharge before the next day’s excursion.
PHOTOS
T O P L E F T:
O N I G A J O “ D E V I L’ S
CAST L E ” RO C KS,
K U M A N O, J A PA N
B O T T O M L E F T:
O K U - N O - I N , K 0 YA ,
WA K AYA M A , J A PA N
R I G H T:
S E I G A N TO -J I
T E M P L E , J A PA N
C O N TACT YO U R T R AV E L A DV I S O R TO DAY