Koyasan has long been a legendary “must
see” for back packers as well as over one
million pilgrims each year. The name is an
honorific and refers to Mount Koya in
Wakayama prefecture where Kobo Daishi
(Saint Kukai) established a monastic retreat in
815 (2015 is the 1200 th anniversary). Today,
there are 123 temples; many offer
lodgings…all offer encounters with serenity.
And then there is Koyasan…
Travellers arrive on the 90 minute train from
Osaka and then transfer to a cable car for the
ascent to the 3000 foot level. Local buses
depart regularly for the 10 minute drive into
town.
It was a bit of a daunting task to find the ‘right’
temple lodging.
Using both English and
Japanese traveller-reports and reviews, we
chose the Jimyo-in, very close to the centre of
town, and we were more than pleased with
the decision. On arrival one of the monks
greeted us, showed us where to leave our
shoes, explained about the meals and the
6:00 am prayer service, and then led us down
a long, twisting corridor to our room. It was
filled with antiques and drawings, and
overlooked our very own private Zen garden.
The two main streets and most of the side
streets in Koyasan lead to temples. Some
offer lodgings, others are strictly for worship.
And under the roofs amongst the intricate
designs you can find Baku and Shishi and
Dragons. Many temples also display the two
Nio guardian statues: tall, scary scowling
gods, one with mouth open (Angyo)
symbolizing birth and the beginning of all
things, and the other, with mouth closed
(Ungyo) signifying death and the end of all
things. Their chilling expressions are meant
to ward off evil and protect all who enter the
temple grounds.
The meditation garden at the Jimyo-in