We watched in wonder as the glittering Grand Procession graciously escorted His Majesty into the dzong. There were musicians on the rooftops, dancers in the courtyard and gifts of silk sashes and ceremonial wine, before the party retired to the private Chamber of the Golden Throne. There, at the most auspicious time of 8.31 am, the Fourth King crowned his 28 year old son, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, in the presence of Je Khenpo, the chief abbot. No sparkling diamonds, only a traditional silk crown embroidered with Tantric skulls and a blue Raven’s head, representing the protective deity, Mahakala. The Fifth Dragon King was blessed with empowering offerings, including curd, incense, yellow mustard and a right-whorled conch shell.
Meanwhile, the public was gathering in the nearby Ceremonial Ground, eager to greet this bright new king, the world’s youngest reigning monarch, who promised to serve rather than rule. He had already toured the country in its most remote corners but still they came, from every direction, yak herders who had walked for days, old folk carried on horseback, nuns who drew lots for a place on an open truck.
The afternoon was a memorable event, 20,000 people, said the papers, dressed in their finest clothes, kiras for the ladies, ghos for the men, woven in intricate patterns, brocade, silk, vivid sashes and belts, silver brooches, sometimes a chunky necklace of turquoise and coral handed down through generations. They had dreamed of this day for a long time and planned to look their best. Now all waited for their turn as His Majesty relentlessly worked his way through the crowds, humbly bent in half, blessing children, hugging babies, offering a kind word or a joke, receiving armfuls of khadars –auspicious white scarves- and handing everyone a commemorative coin. No rush, no fear, only mutual trust and respect. Draped in red and gold, with traditional boots, sleek black hair and a dazzling smile, the newly-crowned king won every heart around.
That night, I dreamed of barefoot dancers and swirling colours, cymbals, drums, bugles and horns and two days of glorious entertainment yet to come. Now that the King had looked into my eyes and said ‘thank you for coming’,
I wanted to see it all.
CELEBRATIONS
‘Now it’s time for Thri-buel,’ said my guide the next day, ‘presents from the people.’ So here they came, two horses, two yaks, two white sheep, two elephants and a calf, five bales of textiles, nine bags of cereals, three stashes of coins and more. All would be returned to their owners, with a royal blessing, but no one would forget the elephants who had never been seen in Thimphu, the capital, and raised their trunk to greet the Fifth Druk Gyalpo, the Dragon King.
The Bhutanese love to dance and the Coronation was no exception. Schoolchildren had been rehearsing for months to entertain King and Country and showcase the culture of this small but diverse kingdom.