RWANDA climb) to see gorillas.” And Francois wasn’ t exaggerating. The following two hours provide a death-, gravity- and physics-defying experience as we arduously mudslide – up the mountain. The incline and altitude is a killer for those who, like myself, don’ t run marathons before breakfast, and my porter, Anastasia, becomes my new BFF as he helps me up and side-ways, whichever direction really, to ascend from around 700 to 2 700 metres above sea level. We battle fire ants, tropical brush, rain and stinging nettles until we finally come across the rare primates. We spend some precious moments with two females and then the alpha male appears behind a bush, just like in the movies, towering above us.

It is extraordinary, almost surreal, to be so close to these endangered beasts in such a remote part of the world, high on a volcanic mountain in a tropical rain forest. We are told not to look into their eyes and to stay around seven metres away. But truth be told, they dictate the distance. Some people wait a lifetime to see 99 percent of their own DNA in King Kong’ s beautiful brown eyes. And within an hour we are gone. But at $ 750 per person, is it worth it, some ask? A resounding yes!

Leaving with a Rwandan smile

Rwanda is the best place to live in Africa, according to a

survey by the US research firm Gallup, which ranks the country 15th globally. Respondents from 143 countries were asked questions about their previous day. Some of these included,‘ Did you feel well-rested today?’‘ Did you feel respected all day?’‘ Did you smile or laugh a lot?’

I’ d argue it should rank equally high for tourists. Did I feel well-rested? Well no, but that’ s because scaling volcanic mountains to grin at gorillas leaves hardly any time for a nap. Respected? Check. Did I smile and laugh a lot? Oh yes! So if you take yourself on only one journey in your short time on earth, let it be Rwanda.

Getting there: Rwandair flies to Kigali from Johannesburg. Visit www. rwandair. com for more

information and reservations.

Accommodation:

Serena Hotel Kigali: www. serenahotels. com / serenakigali / default-en. html Serena Hotel Kivu Lake: www. serenahotels. com /

serenalakekivu / default-en. html

Gorilla tours: Thousand Hills Expeditions:

www. thousandhillsexpeditions. com / home

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