CROATIA
Ancient cobblestone steps stretch up from the hillside, winding their way through compacted alleys. They twist and turn past the shutters and doorways of an ancient fort city, set high along the mountainside ridges of the Croatian island of Cres, overlooking the Adriatic Sea.
Inhabited for close to 4 000 years, legend has it that the Croatian version of Romeo and Juliet was played out from this high vantage point. Where once ancient Romans walked the road to Pernut, sheep now bleat as they guzzle the aromatic shrubs dotted around the only family-run restaurant in the village of Lubenice.
On the up
Just over four million inhabitants are scattered in and around the 6 278 km-long coastline of Croatia. The rand sits at 2.40 to the kuna, which makes a European holiday possible without bank-breaking costs. And the tourists are flocking in, with the 6 % growth from 2014 to 2015 predicted to rise.
It’ s easy to see why. There are many layers to this country that reveal themselves in subtle ways and it is as easy to stumble across jaw-dropping scenery as it is to use free Wi-Fi hotspots across the countryside.
Zagreb, the capital, is a vibrant and buzzing city where residents and well preserved historical buildings like Stone Gate exist side-by-side in the hills of Gričand Kaptol. Catch a ride on the funicular that separates the downtown shopping area, modern restaurants and museums – like the outdoor Archeological Museum, The National Theatre and the Museum of Broken Relationships – from the upper town. Turn a corner and you stumble upon a sight like the roof of St. Mark’ s Church, the towering Cathedral of the Assumption, which stands as the tallest building in Croatia, or a quaint local beer bar with rock tunes and smoke drifting though half-closed windows.
Then, let yourself be tempted by the wonderful produce on sale at the outdoor Dolac Market, and gorge on cured pršut ham hung in rows in the indoor section. It’ s been frequented by Zagrebians for years.
Cafe culture has become popular, especially in the hot summer months where eating and drinking on the streets and in the shops has become a must-do. As the evening lights turn on, Tkalčićeva Street comes alive with buskers and tourists as well as locals fill the bars and spill out onto the streets to dance and drink the night away.
Beyond the city lights
While Zagreb has bloomed, it’ s along the coastline that Croatia really comes into its own, with 1 244 islands and islets that stretch into the crystal clear blue of the Adriatic Sea.
46 Travel Update | issue 9