waterrelief!
A Shikara ride is not very different
from any other boat ride; it’s just more
picturesque. Some of those views truly
give you once-in-a-lifetime moments.
After 10 minutes of the serene boating
through the lake, we reached Shabnam.
Our fascinating residence was about 80
ft long and 15-20 ft wide on the outside.
The cedar interiors, we were told, had
been intricately carved by hand, displaying
the brilliant artistry of Kashmiri
craftsmen.
As we stepped inside the sitting
hall, the décor gave us something of a
Victorian feeling. We wondered what
English furniture was doing in Kashmiri
houseboats, when Altaf, our caretaker at
Shabnam told us that at the time of the
‘Raj’ these houseboats were originally built
by those British who sought permanent
residence in Kashmir. They were denied
permission to occupy land by the
Maharaja, so they created their homes
on water. Well, at least some of those
houseboat names made sense now!
The woodwork in these boats is
exquisite; with Edwardian furniture that
makes the rooms cosy and spacious. Each
room has a hand-crafted ceiling and handcarved cedar panelled walls. The floors
and corridor are thickly covered with
traditional and colourful Kashmir rugs
and carpets. My biggest apprehension
about living in a boat: the toilet, turned
out to be decent too. All the rooms in the
boat have attached bathrooms, electricity
and modern plumbing. But one thing
that disappointed us was the view from
the room. What you expect: the water
clear as crystal, shining like a million little
diamonds when the sun’s rays hit the
surface. What you get: the view of the
next houseboat (not what I paid to see
exactly)! Since these houseboats are placed
in a linear fashion, there is no water view
from your bedroom. There is though,
a charming balcony on every boat with
comfortable seating where you can enjoy
the wonderful view along with laid-back
conversation.
One doesn’t realise how the evening
slides away in Srinagar, while you
are savouring Kashmir’s rich culture,
traditions and beauty. Touring the city by
a Shikara you get a bird’s eye view of the
ancient city laid out on the either bank
of the Jhelum spanned by nine bridges.
You get to observe life on the banks as
well as the life of the people who still
live on water: the Doonga Dwellers.
The fascinating language, exaggerated
expressions, magnificent views of the
hills, the pleasing weather with a pinch of
the chilly breeze. The only little problem
is the high costs of the Shikara rides
taken from tourists, especially during the
season. Since they are the only means of
transport at the lake, one has no choice
but to give in to the prices, which can be
four times the actual fare.
That night as we came back to our
house boat with a blazing appetite.
Our chef prepared the finest Kashmiri
dishes, including barbecued lamb kebabs
marinated in fragrant herbs), Rista (juicy,
March-April 2015 Travel Secrets 59