The place I know the best is the ocean. I know this place well because I love surfing. As I run from the beach to the ocean I feel the wind through my hair, and smell the salty sea that is ahead of me. Once I'm in, I feel a salty solution hold me still, protecting me from all the wrong in the world. Then I paddle (this takes me any where from 2-25 min). I thrust my board into the water for a duck-dive and hold my breath. Then I pull the board to my chest and go to the surface. As I get out past the break, I sit in peace, Bobbing up and down, waiting for that perfect set.
I finally see that perfect set. I turn my board on an angle and start paddling slowly. I look to my left and right, to make sure I am not dropping in on any other surfers. As I feel the back of my board angle downwards. I paddle hard until I feel my board accelerating down the face of the wave. I push my body up and situate my back foot perpendicular to my beautiful 5'10" Hayden Shapes Hypto Krypto. At the same time I push my front foot to it's proper place, a little more than shoulders length away from my back foot.
As I'm carving the face of the wave like a hot knife in butter, I do a wide bottom turn, so much that the top of my board is going towards the peak. As soon as I am at the peak, I thrust the backside of my board out to the sky, and the the water sprays behind me. As the wave starts to slow down I pull out of the break as I see another set among the horizon.
Surfing
11
By Tylor Johnson