Cams Part 2: Size
Correct Size
This is the ideal cam size for the crack it is
in.
The strongest and optimal placement is
within the middle section of the cam’s
range of movement. You should aim to
place every cam like this.
Too Big
This is 'over-cammed' and will be very
difficult to remove. Use a smaller cam if
possible.
Too Small
This is 'tipped out' and will be very unlikely
to hold a fall. During a fall, cam lobes often
slip down the crack very slightly before
being pressed outwards.
In this case, at least one of the lobes is
likely to open completely to it's maximum
range, causing the cam to slip out of the
crack. Use a bigger cam.
VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear
20