You can reduce the
chance
of
this
by
extending the cam with a
sling or quickdraw.
An alternative would be to
use a nut or a hex instead.
Downward Flares
The downwards flare of this crack is too
great for the cam to hold. In the event of a
fall, the lobes will continue opening until
they reach their maximum, at which point
the cam will fall out of the crack.
Cams can hold in very slightly downward-
flared cracks, but it is best to look for
parallel-sided or slightly upward-flared
cracks.
VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear
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