STEP 4:
Insert the capacitors, bend leads, and
solder them. Save one of the leads for
the footswitch.
STEP 5:
4.
Discharge the static in your body by
touching bare metal, then insert the
chip in the socket. Press down firmly
to ensure the chip is seated. Usually, I
place the enclosure under my forearm
while doing this step. Paranoid? Maybe,
but I don’t like burning up chips.
STEP 6:
5.
Run wires from all the designated areas.
Solder the wires to the potentiometers.
Wire “Switch 2” on the board to the
center lug of the SPST switch or one
of the center lugs on a bigger switch
(DPDT, 3PDT) if that’s what you have.
Solder a wire to the lug of the toggle
switch directly above OR below the
aforementioned center lug, and solder
the other end of the wire to Null 2.
STOP!
6.
Now is a good time to check continuity.
Use a multi-meter set to “continuity”
(also known as the “sound wave” setting)
and check the continuity between all
rows and across each cut. Note that
rows H and I are connected with jumpers
in some parts of the layout. If it beeps,
something is wrong.
Now, let’s wire the enclosure.
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