Time to Roam Magazine Issue 5 - October/November 2013 | Page 66
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out the back pets
Getting a jump on flea control this summer
Story by Kelly Zammit
When it comes to flea control,
there are so many available
options that it’s easy to become
overwhelmed and confused as to
what’s best for your pet.
When it comes to flea control, there are
so many available options that it’s easy to
become overwhelmed and confused as to
what’s best for your pet.
In order to limit the number of fleas in your
pet’s environment, it helps to know a little
about the flea life cycle.
Adult fleas are so small that they can be
difficult to detect, much less eliminate from
your home. They feed on blood and then
The most resistant stages of the flea life
cycle are the immature stages, with very
few products able to kill flea eggs. However
there are some simple things you can do to
help reduce flea eggs in your environment
such as washing pet bedding in water hotter
than 60oC and rinsing in cold water with
eucalyptus or lavender oil added. Vacuuming
carpets and floorboards regularly removes
some eggs but also stimulates them to
hatch so that you can then kill the fleas via
the methods discussed below. Don’t forget
to seal the vacuum bag in an air-tight bag
before disposing of it, otherwise the fleas
will hatch in the bag and jump out. If a flea
infestation occurs, consider steam cleaning
produce a staggering 40 to 50 eggs per day,
up to 2,000 in their lifetime.
These eggs fall off and tiny larvae hatch in
one to six days. Indoors, flea larvae live deep
in carpeting or under furniture. Outside, they
develop best in shaded areas, under leaves
or in sandy environments. A mature larva
transforms into a pupa inside a silk cocoon,
and the adult flea will usually emerge in
three to five weeks. However, a flea can wait
inside the cocoon for up to 350 days until
conditions are best for survival. They are
stimulated to hatch by body heat, movement
and exhaled carbon dioxide.
carpet, which kills off larvae as well, or
using a flea bomb or fogger inside the house
containing an insect growth regulator.
Once the fleas hatch, they are more
susceptible to chemical attack. If you have a
large flea problem or your dog is allergic to
fleas, you will need a chemical product.
• There are monthly flavoured tablets
available from your vet that will quickly
kill any fleas that bite your dog before
they are able to reproduce. Although
they are conventional drugs, these are
actually made from a natural product
found in certain bacteria.
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www.timetoroam.com.au
Kelly Zammit
• Topical products involve applying a small
amount of liquid to the back of your dog’s
neck to kill fleas for the next month. If
your dog swims a lot, this may reduce the
efficacy as the chemicals are distributed
in the oil on the dog’s coat. Another
drawback is that small children or cats
may touch the dog’s neck in the first 24
hours and get the product on their skin.
Some of these topical liquids are toxic to
cats so check with your vet before using
these.
• There is also an oral tablet that will
quickly kill any adult fleas that are
on your pet at that one point in time,
however it has no long-lasting effects
and fleas can jump back onto your pet
soon after.
If you have only a low flea burden then you
may want to consider a gentler approach.
Repellent herbs including fennel, sage and
lemongrass can be planted near the kennel
or cattery.
This overview should provide the starting
point to enable you, with the help of your vet,
to develop a tailored flea treatment plan for
your pet and enjoy your travelling without
itching and scratching.
Kelly Zammit is a veterinarian at All
Natural Pet Care, Russell Lea NSW
www.naturalvet.com.au.
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