Living In Laos ~ The Life of an Ex-Pat
John Nelson
Bangkok – City of delights!
Imagine the relief when stepping inside the sky train! Outside the temperature was already hot
but the humidity was fierce, like a drenching of boiling water for a northern European native only
used to a few days of summer each year. My immediate thought was I hope it’s not this intense all
of the time. Inside the sky train was like a huge refrigerator! The air-con was blowing cold on my
wet skin and it felt good! I wasn’t quite sure why the few passengers in the same car kept looking
at me. Perhaps it was my huge backpack, perhaps my sweat soaked t-shirt, or more likely simply
because I was the only foreigner riding the train. In all honesty it didn’t matter and soon I arrived in
downtown Bangkok.
Negotiations with a local resident helped me secure a local transport mode to the area around
Central Station. This was an experience to remember as the ‘tuk tuk’ driver weaved in between
cars and pick-ups, quickly followed by a hair-raising slalom along the opposite lane towards
oncoming cars and other tuk-tuks!
I remember being too afraid to take out my camera to record the crazy actions of the driver,
preferring only to hold on for dear life and hope the experience would soon end.
I don’t recall how much I paid for my ride of a lifetime, somewhere around 20 Baht I think. Now I
was surrounded by hundreds of locals, dozens of travellers and a wall of sound that penetrated my
ear drums. Although the most overriding memory is still the smell! All around the train station was
street stalls and barrows cooking a multitude of food stuffs. No signs, no price lists and no one to
help understand. I was so hungry after such a long flight, and an hour traversing the city from the
airport, that I needed something to eat, anything, and so I pointed to what looked like a nice piece
of pork on a skewer. The vendor held up both hands showing all ten fingers which I gathered was
10 Baht for the food.
I have to say with hindsight that eating ‘rat’ wasn’t on my list of things to do and I probably won’t be
so hasty again but it was the smell which still infiltrates my mouth on occasion that I have problems
forgetting.
During the day I remained close by the station and decided to buy a ticket to the northern city of
Chiang Mai. The overnight train was leaving around 6pm so I stayed and watched the afternoon
performances of dancing and singing in the main auditorium of the train station.
I don’t recall much apart from stirring from what was an obvious sleep. That’s right I fell asleep
amid all the noise and bustle of hundreds of passengers as well as dancers and music. Opening
my bleary eyes I was a little lost on my whereabouts! All I could see were legs. LEGS AND FEET!
Like a fog lifting, my hearing came back and my eyes adjusted to look up at maybe a dozen
people staring at me on the floor. Why were they singing? And why were they holding a hand on
their chest? One or two scowled at me but by the time I came round and stood to see what all the
commotion was everyone had started to sit down.
I discovered later that night during the train journey this thing happened everyday in government
buildings, the national anthem in honor of the king! Showing disrespect to the royal family in
Thailand is an offence punishable by prison, regardless of whom you are and where you come
from.
Perhaps I’d had a lucky escape this time. Next time, the train journey takes me to Chiang Mai and
a face to face meeting with some Tigers!
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