they ’ re not keen on the price , they ’ ll jump somewhere else . And that ’ s a real worry for restaurants at the moment .’
More worryingly for the planet is that Brighton diners don ’ t care much either . ‘ It never comes into it ’ said Euan , when I asked if Brighton ’ s Best is ‘ marked ’ on its sustainable sourcing . ‘ It ’ s about the dining experience . And that has never been raised in any feedback . I would say it ’ s not front of mind for a lot of people .’
So what should we look out for in 2023 in Brighton and Hove restaurants ? ‘ The year was split into two hubs for most restaurateurs ’, Euan told me . ‘ First is : are we still going to be here at Easter ? I don ’ t think it ’ s going to be as bad as people thought it was . But I know that at the tail end of last year , a lot of people were very worried about the first six months of this year . So first of all , I think everyone will just do what they got to do to stay where they are . So that doesn ’ t breed a lot of innovation unless you ’ ve got deep pocket backers behind you .
‘ The fact that the whole industry had to be supported during the pandemic has changed the way investors will look at opening restaurants at the minute . And so , what you ’ re looking at is something which then starts to talk to that entire night out , rather than just the meal . So , keeping people under a roof for cocktails , accommodation . There ’ s a massive hotel being built on Middle Street . It ’ s operating more like a Soho House or a club that keeps you in . I ’ m not saying it ’ ll be club membership by any stretch , but the prices will reflect that I ’ m sure .
‘ The Albert Schloss group which has venues across the North has looked at Brighton . The food ’ s actually really good ; they lean towards the sort of schnitzel side of things . But they are about getting you in and keeping you in for music , for food for everything . And I think Brighton ’ s missing that at the minute .’
And there are plenty of opportunities for investors . The development of The Hippodrome is ‘ up for grabs ’; Churchill Square ’ s food offering is expanding very soon , which Euan says will look to keep people across three floors of drinks and food . That ’ s going to be the challenge for the smaller operators ,’ he warned . ‘ Whereas at the minute , I ’ ll go to a couple of bars and I ’ ll go to Bincho or I ’ ll go to Chilli Pickle , that ’ s going to change for most people ’
It ’ s a depressing vision of Brighton ’ s next food chapter . What we need is something new in Brighton , Euan tells me , and for him , Palmito , the Latin-Indo collaboration between Curry Leaf chef , Kanthi Thamma and his pal from his Chilli Pickle days , Diego Ricaurte is it . ‘ I ’ m absolutely in love with Palmito . It ’ s just food you haven ’ t had before . And for that reason alone , it ’ s just so exciting .’
It ’ s been a wet old winter for your feathered friend as she braves the dark skies in search of the best food finds and drinking dens for her Whistler readers . But as the clouds part and the days get longer , it seems that there ’ s signs of new beginnings popping up all over West Hill .
In Guildford Road alone , the legendary Sussex Yeoman , at one time the easy winner of Best Sunday Roast in Brighton is set to welcome its new tenants after 18 years of the old regime . As your Gull hovers , the doors are bolted , the boards are up and the ‘ substantial investment ’ promised by owner , Greene King , seems to be already under way . The Gull had become used to a regular leftovers feast of a Sunday evening as the city ’ s largest portions defeated even the healthiest of appetites . Check in the next issue to see whether the new menu has whet the Gull ’ s super-discerning whistle .
Over at the ever-buzzing Eddy , those animal and bird-loving landladies , Hatt and Jess are planning more arty pub nights . With Deliveroo biking the food in from all corners of Brighton , your Gull is not the only scavenger waiting at the bins as punters pile in for rockabilly bands and fancy-dress film nights .
The take-away pizzas from VIP seem a particularly popular choice among the birds of West Hill , so large are they that there seems to be enough for everyone . This grumpy Gull did notice , however , that with palate in one hand and brush in other , there was precious few pickings at the end of the recent Bob Ross live paint-along , even for this art-loving bird . There will be more Bob Ross nights coming as soon as March , but in the meantime , the rockabillies coming out to play with the Box Stomping Boys on Feb 17th are a much better bet for a hungry gull . ( And check out www . westhillwhistler . com for an interview )
Always on the hunt for food news , your Gull hears that Drakes Hotel in Kemptown has captured a
A bird ’ s eye view of food and drink in the city
couple of tasty chefs from 64 Degrees . Tom Stephens and Madeleine Riches are launching a tasting menu only restaurant called Dilsk in April . Expect five courses for £ 55 and 10 for £ 95 , a sure-fire leftover offering for your hungry bird ,
Catching a thermal , the Gull soars over to Western Road where a familiar scent of seafood is floating on the breeze . Sniffing closer , it seems that Brighton ’ s best chef , Duncan Ray , the man that Michelin missed , is sharing his brilliance at Atelier Du Vin ’ s new wine bar , Cases .
Shared is his new menu concept which takes him away from his ( and your Gull ’ s ) beloved bivalves at Little Fish Market ( pictured ) with a much meatier menu . At £ 90 for two and his signature oysters to start , just one sitting a night will get a tour of his other favourite dishes cooked by his mate , artisan maker and purveyors of fine pies , Al the Pieman . Expect a terrine of Fosse Meadow chicken , Al ’ s famed beef pie , rump of Saddlescombe lamb with Potato Anna and lentils and a little Financier biscuit with pear and salted caramel that your Gull ’ s got her beady eye on . Local , delicious food , cooked by the best in Brighton ; this bird just hopes that Shared means what it says on the bin .