West Hill Whistle
In which our intrepid reporters make the ultimate sacrifice and go to the best places in town . This issue : Belle Stringer has the best time at Jo & Co
In the early 2000s , I rented a bedroom just off Clapham Common . It was grubby and had likely been used as a brothel at some point in the late ‘ 90s . The dirty curtains and cheap carpet left much to be desired , but there was magic in that room .
If you opened the door to my wardrobe , and looked past the layers of jeans and jumpers , you would find an opening which led to a ‘ 70s bathroom , resplendent with orange tiles and sunken bath . Anyone who visited was taken by it , one friend ventured in with a cocktail for so long I forgot she was in there .
So , it was with a mix of trepidation and excitement that I pushed my way through the fur coats in Jo & Co ’ s seasonal Narnia-themed doorway during the closing chapters of last year .
But as the co-owner Mr Tumnus bounded over to greet us , we happily discovered Narnia had thawed , heated up by something more akin to Club Tropicana . The décor was the right side of kitsch and the music was the right side of the ‘ 80s . From behind the bar we could hear milk being frothed for cappuccinos and ice cubes begging to be liberated from their cocktail shaker prisons .
Our table was near the atrium where the winter sun fell through a full-width glass ceiling . I was drawn to a Dark & Spiky ( their take on a Dark & Stormy ) and was thrilled to find that the addition of pineapple lifted the whole ensemble from sultry evening
FEEDBACK
It ’ s awards season just about everywhere in the world . From Grammies to Oscars , BAFTAs , BRAVOs and Brighton Best , it ’ s a great big celebratory pat on the back for all those who ’ ve managed to produce excellence in some of the toughest of circumstances .
Hospitality is still limping through the fog of COVID as staff illness forces last minute closures , and we reckon it ’ s our social duty to do our best to support them . Eat Out to Help Out is our mantra ; once just an early Lockdown dream , with Rishi reaching into his suddenly deep pockets and chucking out the sweeties like there was no tomorrow , it seemed like the End of Days , and for many restaurants , it was .
So who are the survivors ? Where should we spend what pennies we have , and why ? drink to a brighter , more brunchy affair .
Some greens seemed wise and a small asparagus , broccoli and halloumi salad almost ordered itself . It came on a bed of spinach and the chef had clearly been taking lessons from my Great Aunt . She taught me very early on , through the medium of a prawn cocktail , that no one wants the leafy bits . These are merely a vehicle to get the
main event into your mouth , so pony up the good stuff and go easy on the leaves .
The ratio here was spot on . Griddled courgettes added a bitter sweet yet soft element to the whole . I ’ m not crazy about spinach which hasn ’ t been whipped into something that doesn ’ t taste of spinach but somehow it worked . An abundance of
Our fine readers have been giving us their feedback on their best of Brighton .
Kate Strachan wasn ’ t straying too far from home . “ Redsnapper every time .”
Louise Gasparelli wasn ’ t so sure . ‘ So tricky ... I ’ m venturing to Plateau tonight and do think it ’ s still up there as own of the best .” She had tickets for Upstairs at Beau ’ s : an evening of food , music and jazz and reported back .
“ The set three courses were all delightful and just enough to feel you don ’ t need any more . The rhubarb and custard pud was to die for !!! and some beautiful jazz on the side from the lovely Beau . a tad dark but very atmospheric . Highly recommend . They are doing it again five times this year , I hear ... go ! x
Jed Novick , esteemed Editor of our Mighty Whistler , has no doubt . ” Best local : Red Snapper . Best in Brighton : Burnt Orange ”. “ Totally agree !” said buttery toasted pine nuts and a calming yogurt dressing probably helped . I could , maybe should , have stopped there , but the final sip of my cocktail acted as a gingery palette cleanser so I set my sights on some slow-cooked BBQ beef hash . The beef was melt-in-the-mouth with a cumin-laced BBQ moistness that really woke up my tastebuds . The beef sat between a poached egg and cubes of fried potato which acted as sauce and mop respectively .
After demolishing the lot , I found myself in the astonishing position of having ordered ketchup – an automatic reflex when potato is involved – and not touching it once .
I was loathe to leave because I genuinely felt relaxed and in good company . The staff seemed as happy to be there as our fellow diners and that warm buzz acted as a balm to my previously hectic week . But we left through the wardrobe whence we came , back to the smell of sea air and a world that seemed much happier that the one we ’ d left . As I popped the sweet , minty Jo & Co Brighton Rock I ’ d been gifted into my mouth , I couldn ’ t help but wonder whether my cocktail-wielding friend had returned from my bathroom that night with a square of Turkish Delight in hers . I do hope so .
Jo & Co , 115 Church Road , Hove , BN3 2AF 01273 934400
Amanda Ogilvie - as did the BRAVOs , Brighton ’ s latest gong givers in 2022 ’ s Best of Brighton .
Rob Hodges and Santi Brage were on the same page as the judging panel of Brighton Best . “ Bincho Yakitori , for the high-quality food , inventive flavours and excellent prices ” said Rob . “ Little Fish Market ,” said Santi . “ It ’ s been the best in Brighton for years IMO ”.
And it ’ s true ; Former Fat Duck chef , Duncan Ray ’ s Little Fish Market is the nearest Brighton gets to a Michelin Star experience we reckon , and is always hitting the top spot at the Brighton Best awards . Its beautiful , inventive small plates of seafood in the tiniest space Brighton has to offer is a deeply intimate experience for food lovers .
The Japanese izakaya-style food at Bincho , currently number 2 in the Brighton Best top 20 , is all freshly cooked