The Travellist Issue 2 March 2015 | Page 56

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina One of the most rewarding investments to date in my life has been the train ride from Mostar to the country’s capital, Sarajevo. A ten euro ticket can take you on one of the most breathtaking and awe-inspiring journeys overland imaginable. My eyes were fixated and glued upon the happenings, dreamlike nature, and state of being present outside of my window. Nestled within a picturesque valley and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps lies Sarajevo, the country’s capital. Also known as the Jerusalem of Europe and the Balkans, Sarajevo is the primary political, administrative and cultural centre in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bazaars, churches, mosques, bars, traditional restaurants and cafés decorate the interior of the city which has progressively emerged as an energetic, vibrant and lively capital, intertwining a unique myriad of cultural elements and world defining moments. For example, the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria in the centre of the capital resulted in “the bullet that started World War I”. The street corner where this event occurred has now been converted into a museum for all to experience. Recovering from the repercussions over a number of years, the city and country itself remained largely unnoticed or called upon by the rest of the world. However, in what would come to be the longest siege recorded in the history of modern warfare, the inhabitants, trapped and forced into hiding, endured 1,425 days of artillery, mortar fire and the daily threat of sniper attacks administered from the surrounding hillsides and mountainous landscape. Ulica Zmaja od Bosne , or Sniper Alley, as it is more colloquially known, 54 March 2015 refers to the primary boulevard of the city which became infamous for the danger and risk posed to any who dared to travel across it. While morale and hope gradually diminished and the city arose as a symbol of despair and desperation, the people protruded faith and an unwavering commitment to resolution. As fire, debris and ash littered the once prosperous avenues and city squares, the road to reconstruction was never destined to be easy. Antiquities and famous works were irrevocably lost from this world. The stories and spirit of the survivors will, however, always remain. And of the Bosnians themselves? What I witnessed were a proud and grateful people. I recall one night where I ducked into one of the nearby bars to meet some friends. It was a bustling scene due to an international football match that was being played that night. Lost amongst the crowd, we were warmly greeted by a group of locals and almost instantly found ourselves draped in a large blue and yellow national flag. “Hajmo hajmo Bosno Bosno, hajmo hajmo Hercegovino!” (Let’s go Bosnia, Let’s go Herzegovina!) We chanted and danced along in tune with our new friends as Bosnia battled Portugal on the international stage. Although the result was a draw, the city still stood proud and a multitude of people took to the streets in delight and sung with passion and without compromise as an air of excitement filtered across the entire city. I can’t even begin to imagine the spectacle that would undeniably have ensued had the team emerged victorious.