The Travellist Issue 2 March 2015 | Page 54

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina My first visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina was a time of exploration, change, and extremely loose planning. There were no restrictions or limitations. There was no clear cut itinerary or deadlines to meet. Winter loomed near yet in a state of irony, I felt a pulsating warmth and sense of purpose. This was where I needed to be, although the exact reasons would not manifest with any definitive clarity until I delved into what was on offer in this new, ambiguous place. Located on the Neretva River is the glorious city of Mostar, the cultural capital of the Herzegovina region. After disembarking at the bus station in Mostar, my mind wandered. The walk to the hostel was slow. It’s as if each street corner, curious local or neatly tucked away passageway had a story to tell. Perhaps one of a forbidden romance, a dangerous escapade or 52 March 2015 something more sinister, forgotten in time and lost in history. Trudging along the cobblestone streets, I finally stumbled across the corridor adjacent to my lodging, which I quickly discovered was covered in an uncountable number of bullet holes. It’s interesting how something as seemingly simplistic as an old, dilapidated wall can change one’s perspective. How fortunate I was not to have been there the night the shells hit and bullets were fired. And how lucky I am to stand in that alley years later, alive and well, to muse upon its history. The Stari Most (Old Bridge) separates the picturesque city with the river lying below. Originally standing unscathed for approximately 427 years, the bridge was unfortunately destroyed as a consequence of the Bosnian War. In a paradoxical reflection, the bridge was more than merely a means of transportation or quick crossing of the river. It was more than exemplary architecture. It was even more than the cultural and social epitome and personification of what the city represented and promoted. In the dark, uncertain times of the Bosnian War, it was the most significant pillar of the city that once removed reflected the division of the city and the ideologies of its people. Eleven years after its destruction during the height of the war, the bridge was reconstructed and once again illuminates its original glory and prominence in the city. Today, it draws adventurers far and wide who seek to attempt