Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina
My first visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina was a time
of exploration, change, and extremely loose planning.
There were no restrictions or limitations. There was no
clear cut itinerary or deadlines to meet. Winter loomed
near yet in a state of irony, I felt a pulsating warmth
and sense of purpose. This was where I needed to be,
although the exact reasons would not manifest with
any definitive clarity until I delved into what was on
offer in this new, ambiguous place.
Located on the Neretva River is the glorious city of
Mostar, the cultural capital of the Herzegovina region.
After disembarking at the bus station in Mostar, my
mind wandered. The walk to the hostel was slow. It’s
as if each street corner, curious local or neatly tucked
away passageway had a story to tell. Perhaps one
of a forbidden romance, a dangerous escapade or
52
March 2015
something more sinister, forgotten in time and lost
in history. Trudging along the cobblestone streets, I
finally stumbled across the corridor adjacent to my
lodging, which I quickly discovered was covered in
an uncountable number of bullet holes. It’s interesting
how something as seemingly simplistic as an old,
dilapidated wall can change one’s perspective. How
fortunate I was not to have been there the night the
shells hit and bullets were fired. And how lucky I am to
stand in that alley years later, alive and well, to muse
upon its history.
The Stari Most (Old Bridge) separates the picturesque
city with the river lying below. Originally standing
unscathed for approximately 427 years, the bridge
was unfortunately destroyed as a consequence of the
Bosnian War. In a paradoxical reflection, the bridge
was more than merely a means of transportation or
quick crossing of the river. It was more than exemplary
architecture. It was even more than the cultural and
social epitome and personification of what the city
represented and promoted. In the dark, uncertain times
of the Bosnian War, it was the most significant pillar of
the city that once removed reflected the division of
the city and the ideologies of its people. Eleven years
after its destruction during the height of the war, the
bridge was reconstructed and once again illuminates
its original glory and prominence in the city. Today, it
draws adventurers far and wide who seek to attempt