The Riverside Journals - Festivals Issue 38 - FULL | Page 127
Best for traditionalists: Quo Vadis
Quo Vadis was one of the first Italian
restaurants to open in Soho, in the 1920s,
and it’s still going strong. Their breakfasts
are particularly filling.
What to order: Try the cooked breakfast
(bacon, sausage, black pudding, egg,
roast tomato, fried bread) for £12, or eggs
(poached, fried, scrambled or boiled) with
fried bread for £6.
26-29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL
www.quovadissoho.co.uk
Lunch
Dinner
Best for traditionalists: The French House
This pub and daytime dining venue is
a part of authentic Soho. It’s been a
popular meeting place for Soho workers,
bohemians and artists since it opened in
c. 1910.
What to order: The hot salt beef
sandwich for £6.50 is a popular lunch
time snack with a half pint of beer (the
bar only serves half pints) to wash it
down.
49 Dean Street, London W1D 5BG
www.frenchhousesoho.com
Best for traditionalists: Andrew Edmunds
This restaurant is considered one of the
last mainstays of ‘old Soho’. Andrew
Edmunds has a relaxed atmosphere and
a seasonal venue that has attracted loyal
customers for nearly three decades.
What to order: For starters, go for the
dressed crab and follow it with a main
dish of roast rump of lamb. Finish off
with a pudding or a selection of Neal’s
Yard cheeses.
46 Lexington Street, London W1F 0LP
www.andrewedmunds.com
Best alternative option: Koya Bar
London is one of the most multi-cultural
cities in the world and one way to take
advantage of this is by sampling the food
on offer. Koya Bar is an udon noodle
venue that opens for morning meals.
What to order: As well as a traditional
Japanese breakfast meal of grilled fish,
miso soup, pickles and rice, other early
morning options include hot, handmade,
wheat noodles with raw egg and soy
sauce, rice porridge and kedgeree.
50 Frith Street, London W1D 4SQ
www.koya.co.uk
Best alternative option: Cinnamon Soho
This laidback and stylish venue
specialises in small plates inspired by
classic pan-Indian flavours but presented
in a modern and westernised way.
What to order: The experimental
roganjosh shepherd’s pie or vindaloo of
ox cheek are popular mains, but the real
signature staples on the menu are the
balls. Try the masala corn fritter or bangla
scotch egg.
5 Kingly Street, London W1B 5PF
www.cinnamonsoho.com
Best alternative option: Bó Drake
London is one of the best cities in the
world to try and embrace fusion food. Bó
Drake is a Korexican restaurant, serving
food that’s inspired by Korea and Mexico,
although it prefers to be known as an
East Asian barbecue joint.
What to order: The restaurant has a
rotating menu. Star dishes currently
served at lunch include the smoked duck
bao and the confit pork belly rice bowl.
6 Greek Street, London W1 4DE
www.bodrake.co.uk
Best for vegetarians: NOPI
Yotom Ottolenghi has revolutionised
vegetarian food in London. While NOPI
does also serve meat, even carnivores
can’t get enough of the veggie dishes.
What to order: Start the day on a sweet
note with the French toast with star anise
sugar, berry compote and orange yoghurt
or Black rice, coconut milk, banana and
mango.
21-22 Warwick Street, London W1B 5NE
www.ottolenghi.co.uk/nopi
Best for vegetarians: Mildreds
Tucked away on one of quiet streets of
Soho is Mildreds, a small veggie venue
that has no booking policy (prepare to
queue out the door as soon as the clock
strikes 1pm).
What to order: The fresh tortelloni with
wild mushroom broth is a nice light
lunch. For something heartier, go for the
portobello, wild mushroom and ale pie.
45 Lexington Street, London W1F 9AN
www.mildreds.co.uk
Best for vegetarians: Ethos
Ethos is a buffet style restaurant that
prices its food according to weight. The
main menu includes a dozen dishes from
diverse cuisines. The idea of eating a
Moroccan tagine with an Asian kamikaze
stir fry may sound odd, but it works.
What to order: The food is full of
wholesome dishes and vibrant salads.
The Tuscan salad and sweetcorn fritters
are quite moreish.
48 Eastcastle Street, London W1W 8DX
www.ethosfoods.com
Best for indulgence: Dean Street
Townhouse
This popular all-day restaurant has
garnered quite a following, particularly
with media-types. The fast and friendly
service is a bonus as is the sophisticated,
yet intimate, interior.
What to order: Try the heritage beetroot
hash or grilled Manx kippers, both served
with duck eggs or the lorne sausage and
tattie scones.
69-71 Dean Street, London W1D 3SE
www.deanstreettownhouse.com
Best for indulgence: Maison Bertaux
There’s no such thing as too much cake.
Not at Maison Bertaux anyway. This
French café and patisserie has been
around for over 100 years.
What to order: Cakes, tarts and pastries
are lined up in rows by the window to
tantalise those who walk by. The mini
strawberry tart or fruit cheesecake are
particularly exquisite.
28 Greek Street, London W1D 4AG
www.maisonbertaux.com
Best for budgeting: Milk Bar
There’s something quite peaceful about
Milk Bar. Whatever the reason, it’s the
perfect place for a morning brew and a
light bite at very reasonable prices.
What to order: Coffee. Milk bar is known
for it. For sustenance, order some freshlybaked baked goods displayed on the
counter.
3 Bateman Street, London W1D 4AG
020 7287 4796
Best for budgeting: Pizza Pilgrims
Soho champions the venues that came
from humble beginnings. The brothers
that set up Pizza Pilgrims started their
journey in southern Italy;