ThePaddlerUK 98
Previous inhabitants
In the 12th century the priory of Saint Mary was
established by Cistercian monks on La Maître Île. It is
likely that the monks who founded the priory selected
this wild and lonely location with a little land and water
to graze and grow crops because it allowed them to
observe their key beliefs of manual labour and strict
observance. At this time Les Écréhous may have been a
larger islet made of loess – a fine wind born dust – which
was easily washed away in the storms which hit Europe
in the middle ages. Outside of the bird nesting season
the ruins of the priory can be explored.
Smugglers
In the 19th century it was not just fishing which
generated an income around Les Écréhous. The reef was
also the centre of a highly lucrative smuggling business
between France and Jersey in both peace time and war.
There is even reports of an Elizabeth Remon owning a
hut on La Maître Île where ‘grog’ was brewed and sold to
thirsty fishermen, seaweed gatherers and smugglers. Life
on the reef must have been hard as writers describe
fishermen sleeping on beds of dried seaweed.
The Boots the chemists connection
In the early 20th century, La Maître Île was leased to Lord
and Lady Trent (Jessie and Florence Boot), the founders of
the Boots retail chain. Florence was a Jersey woman whom
Jessie met while convalescing in Jersey. For the Boots and
their friends, a visit to their cottage on Les Écréhous was a
civilised affair. On one occasion a butler dressed in white
uniform was in attendance to serve meals.
Low water fishing was their main pastime and breakfasts
might consist of lobster and champagne. One group of
visiting workmen were reluctant to leave the reef saying to
the Boots, “The Grand Hotel couldn't touch your cooking.”
Today sea kayakers who are prepared to paddle amongst
the reefs at low tide stand a good chance of catching a
lobster or two but don't expect the locals to tell you
where the best holes are. Wild oysters are more plentiful.
Crystal waters
Kayak around the reef at half tide and the area is a mass
of channels and lagoons. Here the sand really is a
beautiful white colour and the waters are crystal clear.
For many this feels like paddling in the Caribbean while
you glide over an aquarium of marine life in the lagoons.
Time the tides correctly and it is possible to explore the
entire reef at low tide. It's even likely to spot a few Grey
seals. Today Les Écréhous is an internationally recognised
Ramsar wetlands site and while access is mostly
unrestricted, a respect for the marine and wild life is
advised especially in areas ashore where Terns nest.
French invasion
The Terns’ nesting site at Le Blianque Île suffered
considerably when a demonstration over fishing rights in
the Channel Islands was organised by French fishermen.
Though sometimes viewed as a storm in a teacup, by
1994 relations with French fishermen over fishing areas
had become tense and the 155-year old Granville Bay
fishing agreement was in tatters. Designed to cope with
the now extinct oyster fishing industry the law was
obsolete and out of date. French and Channel Island
fishermen were in dispute over fishing grounds at a time
when catches were declining and legal routes were
bogged down in a quagmire.
French fishermen resorted to direct action both at home
and in the Channel Islands. In 1993 St Peter Port was
blockaded, two Guernsey fisheries officers were hijacked
while boarding a French boat and taken to France and
50 fishermen landed on Les Écréhous and hoisted the
Tricolour and Normandy flags.
When in 1994 reports of a large demonstration to
reclaim Les Écréhous were received, Jersey's emergency
council met. Concern increased when it was learned that
the demonstrators comprised of Norman separatists,
extreme right wingers, a group wanting the restoration
of the French monarchy, a Catholic priest intent on
saying the Latin mass and a group of fishermen.
On 9th July 150 French demonstrators were met by 30
police officers, the St Martin’s honorary police and an even
larger contingent of journalists. Events became heated with
demands to raise the French flag on the main flag pole.
British compromise and diplomacy ensued and the
protesters were permitted to hoist their flags on Le
Blianque Île while a Latin mass took place on La Taille bank.
At 12:00 there was a sudden change of mood; protesters
sat down and the demonstration turned into a large picnic.
National pride was restored and the fishermen’s concerns
were noted in Paris. Finally, in 2000 a new fishing law was
ratified. All was eventually settled amicably but the Terns’
nesting site took many years to recover from the invasion.