The PaddlerUK magazine March 2015 issue 1 | Page 76

ThePaddlerUK 76 Santa Maria We were picked up by Nico in a Chevy AKA a Vauxhall Corsa. We’d had a lost in translation moment and Nico didn’t realise there were four boats to take. However undeterred we tied our boats on and piled in to the little car. Nico babbled on to us in Spanish talking mainly about tequila and played La Cucaracha on the radio. I don’t think we could have had a more stereotypical experience unless of course he had a Chihuahua. The Santa Maria is a fair drive away and Nico wasn’t always sure of the way and had to stop for directions… several times. This delayed us further on what was going to be a long day. We made the put in which was in the middle of a tiny village way off the main road, this river was by a long way the most remote we paddled in Mexico and for the majority is a long way from the road. However, it again is stunning with many grade 3 and 4 rapids, which are scoutable and portagable for the most part. We were making pretty good progress and decided to stop for lunch ahead of the more challenging gorge. Unfortunately our progress was less good from this point in. The levels were not ideal for running the sieve laden grade 5 and there were a few very visible siphons, which were very much in play. As time was pushing on we made the decision to portage, which was a bit of a mission in itself. However, happily back on the water we continued through beautiful steep boulder gardens more than aware we needed to make it to the take out with daylight left. The Santa Maria take out is easily the most beautiful I have ever seen. The Cascada de Tamul joins from the left in the form of a 300-foot cascade of the Rio Gallinas in to the main flow and you take out at the base. Unfortunately what follows is one of the grimmest hike outs I have ever experienced. Zambezi style ladders… very large spiders… a river crossing… no driver… in the jungle… and in the dark. Just at the point where I was ready to put my ‘just in case’ dry clothes on and bed down in the emergency shelter we saw the headlights of a Vauxhall Corsa appearing out of the black, Nico had saved us. I don’t think I have ever been so pleased to see a Corsa in my life! We treated him to midnight tacos and beers at Taco Richard in Valles ,as we had also not eaten since lunch and we owed him a pretty big thank you. Quite the day trip adventure, which despite the sense of humour failures, sweaty climb out and 5k walk back to the road I would actually do again tomorrow. Nico dropped us off at the bus station complete with bracelets as presents for Amie and I. He was the kindest stranger you could ever wish to meet. We had also learnt the meaning of, “Proper preparation prevents ‘cough, cough,’ poor performance!” Veracruz To get to Tlapacoyan from Valles is a further day’s travel and as we had pretty much exhausted our paddling options with the current water levels we decided after the Santa Maria epic to head over to Aventurec and some R&R. A day’s bus ride to Veracruz followed with some pretty tasty gorditas. The last bus driver was really helpful and for a small tip dropped us off on the doorstep of Aventurec. We were very pleased to find a well stocked bar, a pool, sunshine and comfortable accommodation in the form of little jungle facing bungalows. Tim headed off to do the Roadside Alseseca but we were still in bits from the carry out so opted to sun bathe and stretch! We hitched a lift with the Aventurec rafters and paddled Rio Filo-bobos, initially unaware of another hot, long and jungle walk in. You can pay locals to carry kit down (‘cough, cough,’ Tim Burne got an old lady to carry his boat ‘cough, cough’) but this river is a real grade 3 treat. No real flat sections and lots of play waves and boulder gardens but some of the sections might be less than fun in low water. Tim and I stayed on for the lower section and got the opportunity to visit the Totonac ruins. These are only accessible by kayak or on horseback by crossing a river. There is a sacrificial (ball game court) palace and a pyramid. It seemed pretty strange to be wandering around ruins in kayaking kit and no other tourists, as it was late on a Sunday evening. Filo-bobos rive rside ruins Credit Tim Burne