PADDLER 72
PADDLER 72
A HARSH AND WILD LANDSCAPE
Magerøya has a subarctic climate, with cold winters and cool summers. Winter temperatures often range from-5 to-15 ° C, while summer temperatures hover between 5 and 15 ° C. However, the real challenge for kayakers is the wind, which can be relentless, especially along the exposed coastline where storms from the Barents Sea roll in with full force.
Weather conditions can shift suddenly, and katabatic winds( fall winds) can create powerful offshore gusts. Polar lows, small but intense storm systems, develop rapidly, bringing extreme winds. These conditions require paddlers to stay flexible, adjusting their plans as needed. To navigate safely during summer, paddling at night when winds are calmer may be necessary. Timing the tides correctly can also provide a significant boost around headlands and crossings.
Over 250,000 visitors come to Nordkapp each year to witness the midnight sun in summer or the northern lights in winter. While most arrive by car or bus, only a few take the more challenging route around the island by kayak.
THE JOURNEY BEGINS
Our adventure started in Kamøyvær, a small fishing village a few kilometres from Honningsvåg. With kayaks packed with tents, food, and all the essentials for a five-day expedition, we set off eastward toward Helnes Lighthouse. Built in 1908, Helnes is a crucial navigation point and an area where tidal currents collide, making conditions particularly challenging. When the tide moves eastward, it splits around Magerøya, with one stream going around Nordkapp and the other through the sound( Magerøy Sound), separating the island from the mainland. These two currents meet at Helnes, creating chaotic and demanding waters.
Timing was everything. We aimed to pass Helnes at slack tide when currents were at their weakest. Still, we encountered significant waves of around two meters and swirling eddies. After paddling through confused seas, we reached calmer waters and landed at Kjeldvika for lunch. This isolated bay has no road connection, but there are still a handful of cottages used by the locals.
ENCOUNTERS WITH WILDLIFE
As we approached Honningsvåg, we faced strong katabatic winds funnelling through the valleys, accelerating offshore at around 20 knots. Once we rounded the first headland past Honningsvåg, we finally found ourselves in calm conditions.
Near the Magerøy Sound, we had our first whale sighting. To our amazement, we spotted a pod of orcas and a pair of humpback whales surfacing nearby. Humpback whales are known for their acrobatics, and in Arctic waters, they migrate long distances to feed on krill and small fish. These majestic creatures can grow up to 16 metres long and have unique tail patterns, much like a human fingerprint. Seeing them in their natural habitat was an unforgettable moment.
Further along, we reached Gjesvær, a picturesque fishing village with around 80 residents. This small-scale fishing is noted in old Viking documents from 1225 as a trading harbour and fishing village. The village was without a connecting road until 1976. This in itself is a testament to the importance of the sea to the local populace. Just offshore lies Gjesværstappan, one of Norway’ s most spectacular seabird cliffs. Over a million birds nest here, including puffins, gannets, guillemots, cormorants, and Sea Eagles. Paddling close to the cliffs, we watched thousands of seabirds swooping overhead and diving into the water to catch fish. Stappan is a protected nature reserve, and respecting the wildlife is essential to preserving this unique ecosystem.
THE CHALLENGE OF KNIVSKJELLODDEN
One of the biggest challenges of our trip was rounding Knivskjellodden, the northernmost point on Magerøya. While many believe Nordkapp is Europe’ s northernmost point, Knivskjellodden extends 1.5 km further north. This headland is notorious for its strong tidal currents, which can reach over six knots during spring tides. In poor weather, these currents create large, unpredictable waves.
Fortunately, thanks to careful planning, we managed a safe passage. As we rounded the headland, we heard the unmistakable exhalation of a whale surfacing behind us – a thrilling reminder of the untamed nature surrounding us.