PADDLER 34
PADDLER 34
energy here? Are large dams damaging water quality? Are they a smart idea in an area prone to earthquakes?
MUSSOLINI
Back in 1939, when Mussolini built the first and second oldest of the seven dams that block the Soča, hydropower was arguably the only method of energy production possible for this region. But today, there are alternatives, and in times when weather events are becoming more extreme, tampering with the water supply is risky business. These are the kinds of conversations we have as we paddle. Some within my own head, some out loud, as we all digest what we are seeing and experiencing in our own way.
From now on, we don’ t see any other kayakers or rafters as few paddlers frequent this part of the river that is so heavily managed by humans and blocked by dams. But to get to the sea and truly understand the river, we were going to paddle and see it all. The reservoir completely swallows the flow of the Soča here, visible in the slow movement of the waters of the Idrijca River as it visibly mixes with the Soča. The dam appears a couple of kilometres later, and our path is blocked. We studied water levels in advance to be sure it was safe to venture so close, and once we reached the sign hanging on a cable overhead, we turned our boats around and paddled back to Most Na Soči, where the van was waiting.
We sleep beside the Soča again at the campsite, rafting base, and restaurant upstream of Tolmin. This required the use of our van and friend / driver, but it’ s possible to arrange the trip so that backtracking isn’ t needed.
PODSELO DAM
The next day, we drive below the Podselo Dam and climb down to the river, where we are forced at times to walk and push ourselves through the shallow water. Examining the boulders and canyon walls, it’ s impossible not to imagine what this part of the river looked like when it was wild. The gorge above and below the Podselo Dam would likely be today’ s main rafting section and a stretch frequented by kayakers. It would have more volume than the upper Soča thanks to the box canyon and the increase of water provided by the Idrijca River and would be quite technical with boulder gardens and drops. It would be – no, it once was – something incredible.
The Ajba Dam arrives too soon, but I enjoyed the tropical feel of paddling the flatwater past ivy-laden walls and an ancient arched railway bridge a few kilometres