PADDLER 80
Words & photos : Ollie Sandeman Head of Paddlesport Plas Y Brenin
In each of the past few years , I ’ ve taken some time off to do a canoe expedition in Scotland . The expeditions usually involve an area I ’ m yet to explore , a rather large portage , and ideally , a mixture of whitewater , lochs , and sea .
PADDLER 80
M0RAR TO
M0RAR
A solo expedition around Knoydart and the surrounding area
Words & photos : Ollie Sandeman Head of Paddlesport Plas Y Brenin
In each of the past few years , I ’ ve taken some time off to do a canoe expedition in Scotland . The expeditions usually involve an area I ’ m yet to explore , a rather large portage , and ideally , a mixture of whitewater , lochs , and sea .
I ’ d been eyeing up a circuit starting and finishing at Loch Morar that met these criteria , and I decided to travel solo this year .
I ’ d mapped the trip out to be 160km , starting in Loch Morar . I ’ d head into the Sound of Sleat , up to Loch Hourn , portage 6km over into Loch Cuaich , onto the Garry , into Loch Oich , Loch Lochy , a portage over to Loch Arkaig , then onwards to the notorious 13km portage through Glen Pean and into Loch Morar to finish back where I started .
It was going to be tough , but I knew it was achievable in the six days I had .
DAY ONE
I set off from the West side of the loch and paddled down to the River Morar , the shortest river in the UK . It consists of a weir ( which had to be portaged ) and a short grade 3 rapid with a hole at the bottom . I hopped in my boat and made it through the rapid , albeit slightly swamped . It was an excellent way to mark the start of the trip and the beginning of the section on the sea .
Before long , seals followed my boat , and a white-tailed eagle flew overhead . It felt great to be back in Scotland on an expedition .
At Mallaig , I decided to paddle 6km across the mouth of Loch Nevis , a big crossing in a canoe but easily manageable given the conditions . I made it a couple of kilometres into Loch Hourn and set up camp .
I sat next to a fire , watching the sunset , starting to acknowledge what I had committed to and excited for the adventure to come .
DAY TWO
Loch Hourn was new to me . It translates from Gaelic to Loch Hell , but I can tell you it was far from Hellish ! The scenery was spectacular , the conditions were excellent , and I even had a pod of dolphins playing and jumping out of the water a short distance from my boat .
It was about 16:00 by the time I reached Kinloch Hourn , and with the boat and kit loaded onto the trolley , I set off up the road . It was 6km before I ’ d