PADDLER 70
PADDLER 70
SPONSORED BY prime muskox territory , and there were a few boats with hunters either off to shoot them or returning with a full boat . Up this was I was also getting close to the US Space Base at Pituffik . And at one camp spot – an old US army station that was now only two abandoned huts – I was spending almost two days waiting out the winds when two ATVs appeared over the mountain and came to say hello – it turns out the Space Base was only a two-hour ride over the mountains from my cosy camping spot . Lovely to get a mug of hot coffee !
US MILITARY SHOP
It took me another two days to reach Dundas – the distinct flat-topped mountain directly adjacent to the Space Base , and I managed to wangle a visit there – to the social club and the US military shop . An unexpected visit to a strange location in a part of one of the most remote areas in Greenland .
From Dundas , I pushed on and did over 70km again to Kap Radcliffe , the last real headland before Qaanaaq , where I was pushed back by high winds and had to spend a frustrating day and a half waiting it out . Even then , I launched into heavy seas , expecting a hard slog to get not very far . But 6km in , I rounded the headland , the wind died , and the sun came out ; 10 km of paddling later , I could see the coast where I knew Qaanaaq was . I was too far away to see the town , but I knew it was there and decided to go for it . It was a 55km straight schlep past Herbert Island on my left , and it felt like it took forever .
On those long legs , the land ahead doesn ’ t get any closer for hours . No amount of singing or whistling at the seals makes it pass any quicker , and it ’ s depressingly monotonous . But then you can slowly make out details of the land , the oil tanks that are a big feature of every settlement , and then the buildings and their bright primary colours . About 2km away , three hunters ’ boats came out to greet me , firing rifles into the air . As I closed on the long , recently built jetty , I made out the figure of hundreds of people lined up
– despite it being clear daylight 24 / 7 , a bunch of fireworks was set off , and several traditional qajaqs skimmed out to meet me and escort me in . At this point , I was struggling to keep the tears in , and once the singing floated out to greet me from over half the town that was waiting for me , I was crying like a baby .
3000KM OF SOLO PADDLING
I slid up onto the sand to massive cheers ; Greenlandic flags were being waved – one being thrust into my hands as well as a couple of bags of Greenland mattak ( whale skin and blubber ) and prawns , and I was greeted like one of their own . I had completed it . Finally , over 3000km of solo paddling . The final 900km with a shaped plank of wood , through ice , fog and storms .
It is an experience that I will never forget . Greenland is wedged in my brain now , and I hope I return many more times . If anyone has a chance and / or the means to get to Greenland , I would not hesitate to say Go . It ’ s an incredible country , with the most beautiful landscapes and paddling anywhere in the world . But it ’ s the people who make it . Make the effort , and they ’ ll respond in kind .