“ Conditions can rapidly change on the larger lakes , as we discovered on our fifth day when we had to paddle into a gale wind and ice rain for six hours between Lanezi and Unna Lakes .”
PADDLER 19
“ Conditions can rapidly change on the larger lakes , as we discovered on our fifth day when we had to paddle into a gale wind and ice rain for six hours between Lanezi and Unna Lakes .”
THE ODYSSEY
The story of Odysseus follows the Greek hero home from Troy to Ithaca after the Trojan War . It lasts ten years , and through it , Odysseus encounters many perils , including the eventual demise of all of his crewmates . While the experience my friends and I had in the Bowron wasn ’ t nearly as extreme or perilous ( we thankfully all made it home safely to our loving families afterwards ), there were definitely moments where it felt like a true Odyssey ; a superlative test of physical and mental ability . In fact , it would surprise me if anyone completing the full Bowron Lakes circuit is the same person they are going out as they were going in .
With that being said , I wouldn t recommend the Bowron Lake Circuit to anyone who is a complete beginner . Of course , don ’ t let that discourage you . In the two times I ’ ve paddled the circuit , I ’ ve met families with young children along the way , and they truly seemed just as happy and in love with the Odyssey as we were .
The primary dangers to avoid on the Bowron are the Cariboo River and , more generally , foul weather and fierce wind on bigger lakes like Isaac , Lanezi , and Sandy . Sweepers and deadheads during the river sections can be sudden but are avoidable with strong paddling and skilful steering . Weather , on the other hand , can ’ t altogether be avoided . Conditions can rapidly change on the larger lakes , as we discovered on our fifth day when we had to paddle into a gale wind and ice rain for six hours between Lanezi and Unna Lakes . But what would a canoe trip be if you didn ’ t have to overcome a little adversity ? As Yvon Chouinard said , “ The word ‘ adventure ’ has just gotten overused . For me , adventure is when everything goes wrong . That ’ s when the adventure starts .”
Bowron Provincial Park only permits about 4,500 canoeists to paddle the circuit every season to protect its natural beauty from human impact . We often found ourselves paddling an entire day without seeing another soul . Landscapes and scenery that would draw millions of tourists per year in a place like Banff or Lake Louise , feel like yours alone during the journey . Silence , too , is rarely broken . Except for the sound of your paddle and the occasional loon call , you feel lighter and more in tune with the natural world . It feels like time has stood still here , the landscape remaining more or less unchanged since the end of the last ice age .
BOB VOYAGE
Depending on how leisurely or expedient you intend to be , the 116km / 72m route can be done in anywhere from 11 hours , 47 minutes , 58 seconds ( the record ) to 14 + nights ( as we discovered one couple along the journey had planned for ). As for myself , a father of one with a super supportive pregnant wife at home , I planned a six-night trip with the option for a seventh if we needed it . Our intention was to push hard the first few days , then relax and have some more leisure once we reached the midpoint around Lanezi Lake .
When it comes to portaging , a majority of it is done at the beginning of your journey . Three portages , about 6km / 3.7m in total length , between Bowron , Kibbee , Indian Point and Isaac Lake are all completed on the first or second day . We started our trip after staying at Becker ’ s Lodge ( highly recommended !), allowing us to begin the first portage around 10:00 . With sunny weather and tailwinds , we made great time and arrived at a campsite on Isaac Lake around 19:00 . After lighting a campfire and eating a meal of homemade dehydrated shepherd ’ s pie , we enjoyed a mug of Le
PADDLER 19