The Paddler Magazine Issue 78 Summer 2024 | Page 48

PADDLER 48
Mid-summer solstice canoeing in northern Scotland . What could go wrong ? The northeast part of Scotland has few midges , a beautiful valley and mountain scenery , an iconic river , some intriguing named rapids , plenty of wildlife spotting and friendly people fishing . Plans were made , dates were confirmed , paddling and camping kit was sorted , food was bought , and the meeting point was coordinated between the team . And so , we set off from the Newcastle upon Tyne area with a rendezvous at Loch Insh in the early afternoon , allowing plenty of time for the shuttle and the start of the canoe trip along 68 miles to Spey Bay .
Words : John R . Dean Photos : Neale Brown Canoeists : John R . Dean , John R . Marshall , Margaret Perry , and Neale Brown
PADDLER 48

PENSIONERS CANOEING ON THE

RIVER SPEY

Mid-summer solstice canoeing in northern Scotland . What could go wrong ? The northeast part of Scotland has few midges , a beautiful valley and mountain scenery , an iconic river , some intriguing named rapids , plenty of wildlife spotting and friendly people fishing . Plans were made , dates were confirmed , paddling and camping kit was sorted , food was bought , and the meeting point was coordinated between the team . And so , we set off from the Newcastle upon Tyne area with a rendezvous at Loch Insh in the early afternoon , allowing plenty of time for the shuttle and the start of the canoe trip along 68 miles to Spey Bay .

DAY ONE
A useful meeting and dropping-off point is Kincraig Church , Kincraig , on the shore of Loch Insh . It was a lovely starting point with an opportunity to watch , along with the twitchers , the nesting osprey chick on the nearby island while others did the shuttle . Fully loaded , we set off under the single-track road bridge downstream . This grade 1 stretch of the river provided sufficient meandering to keep you interested and alert for river debris ( a necessity with the remnants of previous storms evidenced in the river ). Our secluded overnight wild campsite provided ample space for tents and hammocks .
DAY TWO
All packed , and with a check that we have ‘ left no trace ,’ we set off towards Aviemore and past the prominent Duke of Gordon Monument , located on Torr Alvie , on the river left . The monument was erected for the 5th Duke of Gordon ( 1770-1836 ), by subscription in 1839-40 , for raising of the Gordon Highlanders . A quick snack break in the grounds opposite The Old Bridge Inn , Aviemore , in mizzle ; the quickness of the break was due to the mizzle and the fact that the pub was not yet open . Meandering on past the Spey Valley Golf Club , you reach the bottom of the valley . The river slows down , and the fantastic scenery of mountains and valleys surrounds you . At least it would have done if the mizzle had not now turned to rain . So , our chances of seeing the mountains of the Cairngorms National Park were gone . Our overnight stay at the very small campsite ( river right ) at Balliefurth comes at a welcome time after the ‘ valley ’ bottom paddle .
DAY THREE
We awake to summer , a brilliant blue sky , warmth , and a good river flow . We are away bright and early with great excitement . Onwards past the new Cairn Distillery ( river left ), we soon reach the bridge over the Spey at Grantown-on-Spey . We go under the picturesque ‘ Old Spey Bridge ’, and it ’ s not even lunchtime !

Words : John R . Dean Photos : Neale Brown Canoeists : John R . Dean , John R . Marshall , Margaret Perry , and Neale Brown