PADDLER 18
PADDLER 18
THE PLAN
Since we were already familiar with the area there ( although we were still discovering new things ), we had a plan . We wanted three things : First of all , a paddle to Les Héaux lighthouse . That ’ s a distinctive landmark on a rock formation some 4 km offshore . The current there is relentless , but with good planning , it isn ’ t a problem at all to reach it and get back . Secondly , we wanted to circumnavigate the island itself , and lastly , we wanted to do rock gardening and rescue training explicitly aimed at this environment . Let ’ s try to tick all of these boxes !
For the record , it was around neap tide ( and even then , a force to be reckoned with ). The wind was blowing constantly from the W to WSW , and always between force 4 to 5 .
DAY 1
After checking the weather and tides , we walked down to the beach . Double-checking all of this isn ’ t a luxury when paddling in that area , as we don ’ t want any unpleasant surprises , such as paddling against the tide . The tidal stream along Les Héaux is relentless , as is the North side of Bréhat island itself . We started sheltered from Loguivy de la Mer beach and made our way through the East side of the fairway . This means we could ‘ leap ’ from one rock formation to another , which is way more fun than just following the buoyage . We went to Sillon de Talbert , a long ( about 3 km ) and very thin headland . This is a protected nature reserve and , for us , the last piece of land we pass before aiming for Les Héaux . Once we passed Sillon de Talbert , we felt a little ocean swell , meaning that we were not sheltered anymore , not from wind , not from tide .
Paddling to Les Héaux was easy for us , as we are used to navigating to buoys on the North Sea , which are even more remote , smaller targets and affected by a sideways tidal stream . We aimed well and didn ’ t need much compensation .
Timing is everything . The majestic lighthouse came close relatively fast , and before we knew it , we were paddling around the rock formations that formed the lighthouse ’ s base . The last time we were here , years ago , we couldn ’ t land on them due to circumstances .
The plan was to search for a safe place to land and visit the ruins next to the lighthouse . Even before we could do this , we had an unwanted incident ! Sylvie loved rock hopping a bit too much , and she was swept with her boat onto the rocks . Only minor scratches ( hence why we wear helmets close to rocks ), a wet exit and some well-trained incident management later , we found ourselves back in business .
There ’ s also a pointer to our frequent rescue and safety training . The sea is always unpredictable , and the only way to avoid these things is to not go rockhopping . But since we ’ re not so much into pétanque , we accept the risk that comes with that and make sure that we are trained and prepared .
So , back in the saddle , and maybe ten minutes later , we found the perfect landing spot . It is perfect to have a lunch break and a visit . The ruins are the last remnants of the worker ’ s quarters that built the lighthouse between 1834 and 1840 . Looking up some history taught us that these small ruins housed about 60 workers at the same time . There were very tight sleeping quarters ( only for 30 persons ) with hammocks on two levels , a small kitchen , a shop , and no toilets . It ’ s almost impossible to imagine what it was like back then , when the conditions were so terrible !
LA CROIX LIGHTHOUSE
After exploring the ruins , we did rescue exercises with the tow line along the rock formations . When we were cooled down enough , we went back . We choose an alternate route to avoid doing the same thing twice . We targeted Ile Modez on the east side of Bréhat and then went on to the distinctive La Croix lighthouse back in the bay .
This lighthouse was also built on a rock formation . You probably hear it coming . Yes , we also needed to climb on this , just for the fun of jumping back off in the azure-coloured water to be rescued by the others . ‘ Just touring ’ is nothing for us , therefore we have too much energy ! We ’ re like dogs chasing cars ! We see something ; we must get on it , paddle in between it , or paddle over it ! End of day 1 when setting back foot on Loguivy beach ! Planned items 1 and 3 ticked off !