Words & photos : Cory Jones The Johnstone Strait east of Vancouver Island is world renowned for watching orca . Historically there were huge salmon runs through the waters between the archipelago off Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia which was food for both residents and migrating pods of orca . The salmon are still funnelled through the islands , but in a smaller number than previously .
Summer of 2022 , I spent July and August on a 1000-mile canoe expedition through the Peel river catchment in remote northern Yukon and Northwest Territories . The trip crossed both the Arctic Circle and Continental Divide . At the end of this trip , I returned to Vancouver and had a week to spare . As I never had sea kayaked in British Columbia , I thought a few days on a solo sea kayaking trip searching for whales and orcas would be a great way to relax . It was the week after Canadian Labour Day , so early September .
PORT MCNEILL From Vancouver , I travelled to Port McNeill on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island to organise this last-minute trip . With a little research , it was possible to talk to a range of sea kayak outfitters in the area about hiring a kayak and some safety kit , like a VHF radio . As I had already been on an expedition over the summer , I also had a Garmin InReach , bear spray and plenty of general paddle sport equipment . As part of this research and the hiring company sounding me out , we discussed getting local weather forecasts , rescue services , tidal planning and the best camping spots . The local kayak guides were incredibly helpful , and their knowledge was very useful in the brief period I had to plan this mini trip . I purchased the expedition food I would need for the trip in Port McNeill , which was readily available at the main supermarket .
TELEGRAPH COVE The starting point for the expedition and sea kayak pick-up point was Telegraph Cove , about 20 miles south of Port McNeill .
Telegraph Cove is situated in a sheltered inlet at the northern end of Johnstone Strait , across from the Broughton Archipelago . Today it has a community of about 20 inhabitants , working mainly in the tourism sector or local timber enterprises . A century ago , all there was a one-room telegraph shack from which loggers , fishermen and pioneers would stay in touch with the outside world .
As the settlement grew , a fish salting plant , a sawmill , a school and a general store were built . Today those timber buildings and boardwalks around the edge of the cove make for a very picturesque base for the area ' s eco-tourism enterprises . As well as kayak outfitters , there are whale watching operations , a campsite for motorhomes and tents , a cafe , a restaurant , and a number of the old buildings are available for holiday rentals .
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