ThePADDLER 18
The Skeena River
The Skeena River in BC , is one of the most beautiful rivers we have had the chance to paddle in our life . It was initially known as the K ’ shian River , meaning ‘ where the mist comes out ’. From the city of Terrace to the Pacific Ocean , the views and the landscape were magnificent . The high peak mountains surrounded us , and that was outstanding .
Heavy morning fog and low-hanging clouds were common . The Skeena River is located in the Great Bear Rainforest , which is a real treasure . It ’ s a wild river filled with history , and it flows through the spectacular wilderness of the Coast Mountains . Wolves , wild cats and grizzly bears are commonly seen in this area .
It ’ s a very famous river for wild steelhead and salmon fishery – the ultimate fly fishing playground . Next time , we will make sure to fish a little more . Paddling the Skeena River was like being part of a painting ; it was surreal . Discovering a territory by its waterways was a unique experience .
At the end of the day , when the sun was about to set , it was such a nice feeling to find a lovely camp spot in an old-growth forest . We unloaded the canoes , set up the tents , put some dry clothes on , lit the stoves and while eating a delicious meal , we relaxed and enjoyed the view .
PORTAGING We like portaging when the load is not too heavy . It provides a nice break from canoeing and allows us to get deeper into the wilderness and see many amazing places . It ’ s sometimes just fun , but it can also be a huge accomplishment , especially if it ’ s raining or if the terrain is rough and steep .
There are no regular portages along the Inside Passage . Nevertheless , the low and high tides of the Pacific Ocean made us do short portages through the intertidal zone to get to camp and back on the water in the morning . I was surprised at how high could be the tides , up to seven metres , during a full moon .
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THE GRENVILLE CHANNEL After paddling the 150 km Skeena River stretch , we reached the Pacific Ocean and entered the lovely Grenville Channel . It ’ s an 83 km long straight and is 0.37 km wide at its narrowest point . There are densely wooded mountains on both sides . Campsites were few , but they were beautiful . Timing ourselves with the right tide was the key and allowed us to cover a lot of distance . The current is so strong that it ’ s almost impossible to paddle against it . Many curious seals followed us along the way . The long and narrow channels in BC are a real test of mental toughness , but it never disappoints .
The transition from freshwater to saltwater was easier than we thought . The weather was in our favour , the wind at our backs and the sea calm . The temperate rainforest is one of the wettest non-tropical areas globally , and we had a good taste of it ( There is no such thing as bad weather , only bad clothes ). Our Arc ’ Teryx rain jackets and Kokatat drysuits were perfect and kept us dry .
It ’ s a wild river filled with history , and it flows through the spectacular
wilderness of the Coast Mountains . Wolves , wild cats and grizzly bears are common