ThePADDLER 96
Covid – “ Talk about getting in by the skin of our teeth !”
The uncertainty about Covid and its associated restrictions has become part of the new ‘ normal ’. This trip was no exception , with the different rules in England and Scotland an added complication . We had all booked months in advance , but it was only from 26th April – 10 days before the trip , that the Scottish Government allowed cross border travel from the rest of the UK . Those of us who were due to share with other households on the first night arranged alternative accommodation , most of us had had at least one jab , and we all took a couple of tests before we set off .
On the first day , we paddled across the Strait of Arisaig , a slightly choppy crossing of 6km . Shaun established a system of pairs of buddies for this and all subsequent crossings , so we all had someone to look out for and look out for us as we crossed , keeping in as tight a block as we could and regrouping when the group showed signs of spreading out . As the wind was picking up , we pitched camp on Rubh , Arisaig ’ s headland , rather than make the planned crossing to Eigg , the stronger paddlers heading off to the skerries in the afternoon , encountering a strong headwind on the return journey . Our leaders were puzzled : the wind was not behaving as forecast .
EIGG
The following day , however , we woke up to the sound of cuckoos , the wind abated , and Shaun came round telling us to be on the water for 10:00 . We made the 12km crossing to Eigg , heading directly for the great volcanic pitchstone plug , the Sgurr of Eigg . With a population of just under 100 , Eigg is owned by the Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust , who manage it on behalf of the community since a fundraising campaign and community buyout in 1997 . Those of us at the back of the group were rewarded by seeing a pod of harbour porpoises , including a mother and calf , which swam around us . Harbour porpoises are the most common and widely distributed cetacean species in the area and are relatively small compared to dolphins . We did not stop long on Eigg ; as the conditions were good , we
Martin and Gerry with their tarp
paddled north through glassy water along its beautiful coastline . We passed basalt columns similar to those seen on the Giant ’ s Causeway and Fingal ’ s Cave , seeing plenty of grey seals beside us and the mountains of Skye in front of us .
RUM
Once we reached Eilean Thuilm , on the northern tip of Eigg , we made the 8km crossing to Rum , seeing cormorants , Manx Shearwaters , and lots of angry terms . Initially , the conditions were calm , but then a rainstorm passed over us , increasing the chop and reducing the visibility . Shaun called out , “ Anyone with a deck compass , it ' s a bearing of 305 degrees !” We paddled into Kinloch on Rum ; Shaun went ashore and negotiated for the group to camp outside the Rum Bunkhouse , owned by the Rum Community Trust , where there was a loo , a shower , and a covered decking area that we could use to cook and eat .
Rum is the largest of the Small Isles . Most of the island is a national nature reserve owned and managed by NatureScot , internationally important for its geological features , upland habitats , plant communities and breeding birds . A group of post-graduate students from Exeter University were camping there at the same time , monitoring the Manx shearwaters .
DAY THREE
On day three , we realised what a good shout it had been to press on to Rum ; the heavy rain continued until mid-day , and with another spike in the wind-speed forecast , Shaun said we would make this a base camp and stay here another night . Luckily , the café on the island opened for its first day of business , and we all went over to Kim ' s Kitchen for egg , bacon and sausage sandwiches . Kim has just started a venison business and provided venison steaks for those who wanted them to cook for supper . While most of us had taken boil-inthe-bag food and pouches of dehydrated meals , the leadership team dined in style , with fresh salmon , rocket salads , peppers and fresh rosemary .
Those of us at the back of the group were rewarded by seeing a pod of harbour porpoises ,
including a mother and calf