OBAN , SCOTLAND
Nothing can match the feeling of paddling around a headland and seeing the world open up in front of you . In Oban , on the west coast of Scotland , our lives are filled with these moments . We perch on the fringes of the world , where a myriad of islands laps the edge of the Atlantic Ocean .
Looking at a map of the waters around Oban , you can easily understand why the sea was once a thoroughfare , not a barrier . Patches of land lie dotted in a blue expanse of maritime highways . Oban is the Gateway to the Isles , and Calmac Ferries run steadily in and out of the harbour . Thanks to the Scottish Canoe Association , kayaks travel free on the ferries , so with nothing more than a trolley , a foot passenger ticket and a sense of adventure , the intrepid paddler can launch themselves out across the Hebrides .
But many of the best destinations aren ’ t reached by ferry . Many of the smaller islands just off the mainland used to be inhabited . The Garvellachs were home to monks living in beehive cells ; Belnahua , one of the slate islands , housed a densely packed population of quarrymen and their families , despite no water source . Further north lies the remains of lime kilns carved out of the hillside . All these are testament to the fact that long before roads and trains , goods and people travelled this stretch of coast . Now , they make perfect camp spots for paddlers .
The interplay of land and water creates a fantastic range of conditions for sea kayakers . North of Oban , the scenery is dominated by mountains and sounds narrow into sheltered sea lochs . Paddling south , the sea takes over . To the west of the main islands – Luing , Scarba , Jura , Islay – you can be exposed to the full force of the Atlantic . Here , there is nothing between you and America .
Sneak around the inside , however , and you enter a very long funnel . The sea , which had plenty of space flowing into the Sound of Jura between Islay and Gigha , becomes ever more squeezed as it pushes northwards , left with no choice but to force itself out through the tiny gaps of the Corryvreckan , Grey Dogs and Sound of Luing . Get your tidal planning right , and there ’ s up to seven knots of free ride and plenty of fun . Get it wrong , and you ’ ll be faced with the world ’ s third-largest whirlpool .
Wildlife , too , loves strong tides and varied coastlines . Common and grey seals tag along behind kayakers . Otters dive in and out of the kelp , snatching crustaceans from the seabed . Sea eagles , first reintroduced on Mull , have spread and now nest along the coast . Porpoises and dolphins follow the mackerel migrations . Minke and even humpback whales visit occasionally . Black guillemots nest in Oban ’ s harbour wall .
The west coast of Scotland is , without doubt , one of the most superb and versatile paddling destinations in the world . Oban is one of its highlights .
Sea Kayak Oban offers trips , courses and expeditions for all levels from beginner to expert , as well as BC qualifications , custom bookings , and rental for experienced kayakers . Our shop specialises in quality kayaking equipment and clothing , and we hold one of the largest sea kayak demo fleets in the UK . Web :
www . seakayakoban . com Mail :
adventures @ seakayakoban . com
NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND AND BERWICKSHIRE
Having lived and worked here , mainly on the water , since 1999 I can wholehearted recommend the area for your UK staycation – from two days to two weeks , you will find plenty of paddling adventures to make you happy .
This area has to be one of the best intermediate sea kayaking venues on the east coast . We also have a fantastically wild touring river to boot with a few interesting tributaries .
The sea kayaking is suitable for most paddlers , but I would not recommend it for beginners to the sport looking to take their first paddle strokes on saltwater . This is due to the exposed nature of the coastline and the North Sea – a shallow body of water , relatively speaking , it used to be a big estuary ! The North Sea has a reputation amongst sailors as a bit unpredictable , mainly because of its tidal flow up and down the east coast . Although we don ’ t have the biggest tides , just over five metres at big springs , there are a few areas where the tide get squeezed and can run at five knots at its maximum .
The main highlight must surely be the Incredible Farne Islands – possibly the most highly populated and varied sea bird breeding site within five miles of the UK coastline in the summer and a very important Grey seal pupping area in the winter months ( up to 2,500 in the last few years ). The National Trust manages the Farne Islands , with strict rules as to where and when you can land , so please contact Ollie Jay , Active 4 Seasons , to get the latest information so as not to rock the boat inadvertently .
The next highlight would be the fabulous St . Abbs headland just across the Scottish border . Impressive coloured cliffs with sea stacks and caves to explore out with the sea bird breeding season . In the summertime , the cliffs are full of breeding sea birds , now including the Northern Gannet ( our biggest sea bird ).
Lastly , the fabulous River Tweed and its tributaries must get a mention as one of the least paddled major UK rivers . A source to sea 97 miles from Tweedsmuir to the Historic Berwick upon Tweed , the most northerly town in England . This would be a once in a lifetime adventure . It has been paddled by canoe in 15 hours for those who aspire to race these things , but it is well worth a four or five-day gentle jaunt !
The coastal strip becomes very busy during the school holidays , so I recommend heading north to Berwick upon Tweed or inland to Belford or Wooler to get away from the crowds . There is a wide range of accommodation available from hotels to campsites .
Berwick Youth Hostel has some excellent family rooms , Pot A Doodle Do , just south of Berwick , have heated wigwam huts for four people and yurts . Top quality guest houses include The Gables , near Duddo , and the Market Cross in Belford . Campsites include Budle Bay and Paxton House on the River Tweed .
Eilean nan Caorach , Oban Photo : Maja
St . Abbs headland
Active 4 Seasons , run by Ollie Jay , has operated in the area since 1999 . The most experienced and highly qualified coach and guide in the area . We can offer guiding , coaching , and boat hires for those not wanting to bring their equipment across the country . We also offer rock climbing , coasteering and history bike tours for those looking to keep their feet dry for the day . Web :
http :// active4seasons . co . uk
ThePADDLER 47