The Paddler ezine WW kayak collection 2013 | Page 82

ThePaddler 82 All in all it took us 56 hours to get from Cusco to the Laguna Lauricocha, our put in for the descent of the Rio Lauricocha. After 21 police controls and uncountable miles on gravel road we are finding ourselves in a small Indian town of Yanahuanca, where we took a last good meal in a Polleria – roasted chicken with French fries, soup and salad for round about 4$. In a small shop we bought food for the upcoming seven days. The road map gives us an idea what's coming next: The really bad roads have been marked white; the upcoming road is just grey and way thinner. Also the junction to the road can be only found with the help of the local people. A thin steep dirt road, as wide as a car, is curling up to the high sierra of the Cordillera Raura. Initially we haven't been sure if it's possible to run the road without 4WD. All the locals told us not to try without, but we did it and it was unbelievable what a Toyota Probox is able to handle. We spent a lot of time filming, photographing and just enjoying the landscape. On the map it was looking like just 10km but after a few kilometres on the gravel road the driver told us, there are still 30km to go (3-5 hours in 4WD car) to the Laguna Lauricocha and it's impossible without 4WD. With super slow speed it's going over big rocks, super steep ‘roads’ and muddy pools. After a small village with five Indian huts the road was much better. We are still on a gravel road but now with road signs and less pot holes. After a couple of hours we decide to camp at an elevation of 4,500m. After a cold and rainy night we reach the laguna Lauricocha. 75 years ago, Herbert Rittlinger wanted to start his mission here, but he had too little water and so he was forced to start about 50km downstream. So now it's our turn to do the first descent starting from the Laguna of the Rio Lauricocha (the biggest source river of the Amazon). as the fir We are leaving the Lagu on the w of the upper sou