The Paddler ezine WW kayak collection 2013 | Page 155

From Phugtal

it was just 30 minutes to the confluence of the
Kargiak Chu. The river picked up and I was
running some classic Himalayan class IV. Camp
tonight was close to a local farmer, the wind was
brutal and I could not help get sand absolutely
everywhere, dinner was going to be late tonight.
My final day on the Tsarap Chu, could I had
heard also be my hardest, though it turned out to
be the best white water day! I just had to
negotiate Reru Falls. For me it was a portage,
though I would consider it within a group but I
was having enough trouble from the Indian
Foreman, or what I would call a supervisor!
He was running down screaming for me to take
cover, I grabbed my camera, paddle and ran for it
with the foreman chasing. We just both made it
into a sheltered cove as a massive explosion went
off and rocks came flying down from everywhere.
The foreman looked at me and said, “You were
very lucky!” I just hoped my kayak was still in
one piece! They were blowing into the canyon
walls to make way for a road that would go from
Padum to Darcha (in-fact a road is planned to go
from Leh through the Zanskar Gorge via Padum
and finally onto Darcha).
With the excitement of dynamite behind me as
well as Reru Falls I now had some three hours of
class IV read and run. It was great to be in these
big pushy rapids, it kept me smiling all the way
down to Padum. I had now reached my halfway
point and place to finally get rid of the kerosene
and buy some petrol.
I did want to spend the night in Padum but it
would have meant trying to drag my kayak up to
the rim and then wait for however long it took
for a taxi to come by. I left the boat and kit again
secured to a rock by the river and headed into
downtown Padum. The first priority was the fuel
the next some to eat. I had been living off rice
and dhaal since the put in and now it was time
for the taste buds to get a treat! I was not
disappointed, fried Momos and a Coca-Cola!
I camped just below Padum close to the
confluence of the Stod River, once the Stod and
Tsarap Chu come together the Zanskar is formed!
That night I received a few visitors but for me I
was mesmerized by the lights of the village of
Karsha. After three nights of complete darkness
the lights of Karsha was something unusual. As I
kept staring towards civilization I realized how
my I had enjoyed the Tsarap Chu and will the
Zanskar be just as good?

ThePaddler 155