THE MASS MARKET ; SUSTAINABILITY AND ETHICS EDITION 2016 1 | Page 8

THE MASS MARKET ; NOV 2016 THE MASS MARKET ; NOV 2016 THE DEFINITION OF FAST FASHION; Zara ‘Eco’ Concept Flagship Store ; Hong Kong, China 8 Fig. 11 Fast fashion is the fast turnover of low cost ready to wear garments within the fashion industry. The advantages of fast fashion are that is simplistic, convenient, very accessible and affordable with Zara being the leader in fast fashion and has a six-week turn around process (designing garments and sending them off in production and having them in store). Fast fashion is more than often seen within the mass market as this is what the largest retailers sell. Initially, their goal is to sell garments as quickly as possible by taking catwalk designs from some of the leading designers and emulate them, using lower quality manufacturing methods and fabrics. (Joy. A, et al, n.d.) Fast turnover processes allow retailers to have “an agile supply chain, allowing retailers to bring in ‘hot’ garments and capitalise on demand”. (Raconteur, 2016) The methods used to make fast fashion are seen to be extremely detrimental to the environment such as sandblasting, the use of toxic chemicals to dye clothes, the harming of animals for their fur or skin (eg. fur, leather) and even the making of faux furs. As a result of backlash from public (eg. animal harm activists, non-government organizations; PETA), this has made a big push for change within retailer’s sustainability and ethics remit, for example New Look have now started selling sustainably made jeans, H&M and Zara both have sustainable and ethical clothing lines called ‘Conscious’ and Zara’s ‘#JoinLife’ and also ASOS’ ‘Made in Kenya. ASOS work with the ‘SOKO Initiative’ which is a manufacturing company in Africa that allows good working conditions for women as well as decent wages. They also allow access to pre-schooling for children and free medical care. (Chicago Tribune, 2016) These retailers are actively partaking in ‘good ethical practice’ – with H&M giving customers an incentive (a voucher or percentage off their customer’s purchase) to give their old clothes into store and Zara packages their deliveries in recycled cardboard boxes, stating that they are ‘boxes with a past’, e-commerce store ASOS is also doing the same thing and states on their packaging that it is either biodegradable or 100% recyclable. New Looks sustainability and ethical report (n.d.) states, “We have a long way to go. Meeting workers’ needs across our supply chain is a big challenge. It’s not easy and we have a lot of obstacles to overcome along the way. But we’re determined to bring about positive change.” This insinuates that New Look as a brand are just now starting to take their first steps to make their garments more sustainable. 9